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Routes in Good Medicine Area

Adore T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bear Dance, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Elk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chocolate Moose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dream Catcher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Water S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forgotten Warrior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ghost Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Medicine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Am Haunted S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indian Summer S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Legend, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medicine Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moon Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Peace Treaty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruthie Boulder V? ?
Sacred Hoop S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Guide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sun Dog S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomahawk in the Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribal Warfare S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vision Quest S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Man's Burden T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wind Walker S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wounded Knee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Baldwin, 91
Page Views: 8,594 total · 49/month
Shared By: Lee Gitlin on Jul 30, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

Black Elk is a good enough reason to drive all the way down the Mirror Lake Hwy and take the 20 min hike to the Ruth Lake Crag. It has an interesting, balancy beginning, followed by a bouldery crux, onto an exposed face. The rock has good friction, the holds are positive, and the pro is place a safe, sane distance.

Protection

New, well-placed bolts, spaced about 8 feet apart. Very safe and bomber.

Photos

Tosh Peters
Park City, UT
 
Tosh Peters   Park City, UT
 
fun sustained climbing with a nice "pump crux" from the last bolt to the chains and a good rest before the last 4 bolts. Jun 22, 2008
An enjoyable climb. Move up small arete to right of roof. Stem your way through the recess in the wall. Take a break on the middle on a large ledge. Crux is at the top where you follow an off-width slopey crack. There are good holds, but be prepared to make boulder moves to get them. A challenging 5.10a. Great view! Jul 26, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I agree that this is a challenging 5.10a. Long route! Lots of fun! The headwall that makes up the second half is the best part. Aug 19, 2008
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.10a
Good sport route to climb on gear sans bolts. Takes decent smaller cams, 2-3 C3 and .3 to 1, and nuts well. Just to add a little spice to your life. Jul 10, 2012
Brandon Ashby
Kamas, UT
  5.10b
Brandon Ashby   Kamas, UT
  5.10b
An absolute blast, might be my favorite climb. Navigating the mini chimney to the pumpy head wall is just fantastic. Highly recommended! Aug 27, 2013
J Saarela
Park City
  5.10-
J Saarela   Park City
  5.10-
Some very fun movement on mostly positive holds (although decreasing in size the farther you go).

If you have a wrench, bring it. As of 8/19, 5 of the 9 bolt hangers were spinning--the 1st, 4th, and 7th-9th if I remember right. Aug 20, 2015
Jordan Gilbert
Logan, UT
 
Jordan Gilbert   Logan, UT
 
If this route was at the Wall of Tiers there wouldn't be a single bolt on it. Sep 16, 2016
Matty Coles
Salt Lake City
 
Matty Coles   Salt Lake City
 
A really fun route to climb on gear. Protection is all there, if only a little tricky in a few spots. I would take a Standard rack up to maybe #2 or so and a full set of nuts. I made do (with healthy amount of run-out) using a set of peenuts and small cams from .2 - .75. If using only cams, it might be a good idea to double up from .3 - .75. Sep 7, 2018

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