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Routes in Good Medicine Area

Adore T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bear Dance, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Elk S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chocolate Moose T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dream Catcher S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fire Water S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forgotten Warrior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ghost Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Good Medicine S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
I Am Haunted S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Indian Summer S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Legend, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Medicine Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Moon Stone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Peace Treaty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ruthie Boulder V? ?
Sacred Hoop S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spirit Guide S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sun Dog S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tomahawk in the Back S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tribal Warfare S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vision Quest S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Man's Burden T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wind Walker S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wounded Knee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jim Stone '96
Page Views: 3,541 total · 28/month
Shared By: icsteveoh on Aug 20, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This climb is awesome. Awkward first bolt on slopers and pinches leads to jugs to a little inverted face climbing. Go up through a small chimney and traverse right over the roof. Then get ready for 5 bolts of vertical slightly overhung crimpfest.

Location

Same start as Wind Walker. This climb starts to the left of the big roof and left of Blak Elk. There are a plethora of bolts at the bottom of the climb but use the right most of the cluster.

Protection

The book says 12 bolts but there's actually 13 bolts plus two hangers at the top.

I placed a tri-cam to protect a bolt that seemed to compromise two sizes of quick-draw.

Photos

dead vertical slightly overhanging.. im confused May 6, 2011
Skip the first 2 bolts as it's really just a V0 boulder problem, and the bolts are so close together. The bolts on this climb are closer together than on the walls of Momentum. If you can skip a few bolts, the rope drag will be much less and make the crimpy section up high much easier. At least sling them long.

The climb itself is fantastic. Only downside is how easy it would be to bail off to the right at any point and use black elk as a safety net.

Finally, the anchors are a little goofy, two chains at totally different heights. Sep 12, 2010