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Moon Stone

5.11b, Sport, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.3 from 58 votes
FA: Jim Stone '96
Utah > Uinta Mountains > Ruth Lake > Good Medicine Area
Access Issue: Located in a National Forest Fee Area Details

Description

This climb is awesome. Awkward first bolt on slopers and pinches leads to jugs to a little inverted face climbing. Go up through a small chimney and traverse right over the roof. Then get ready for 5 bolts of vertical slightly overhung crimpfest.

Location

Same start as Wind Walker. This climb starts to the left of the big roof and left of Blak Elk. There are a plethora of bolts at the bottom of the climb but use the right most of the cluster.

Protection

The book says 12 bolts but there's actually 13 bolts plus two hangers at the top.

I placed a tri-cam to protect a bolt that seemed to compromise two sizes of quick-draw.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Rich working the crimps on MOON STONE 11b
[Hide Photo] Rich working the crimps on MOON STONE 11b
dean with the bossy heel hook
[Hide Photo] dean with the bossy heel hook
Talia starting on moon stone
[Hide Photo] Talia starting on moon stone
crimpers!
[Hide Photo] crimpers!
Austin climbing Moon Stone fall of 2018.
[Hide Photo] Austin climbing Moon Stone fall of 2018.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Skip the first 2 bolts as it's really just a V0 boulder problem, and the bolts are so close together. The bolts on this climb are closer together than on the walls of Momentum. If you can skip a few bolts, the rope drag will be much less and make the crimpy section up high much easier. At least sling them long.

The climb itself is fantastic. Only downside is how easy it would be to bail off to the right at any point and use black elk as a safety net.

Finally, the anchors are a little goofy, two chains at totally different heights. Sep 12, 2010
[Hide Comment] dead vertical slightly overhanging.. im confused May 6, 2011