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Routes in First Cliff

Breathless Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Columbine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flyin' High T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forces of Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freedom Fighter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Living the Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Trad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patricia Lake Grack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie in the Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satin Rose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaft, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sons of Liberty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiz Bang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Todd Graham, Brian Carkeet (July, '02)
Page Views: 1,838 total, 21/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Jul 19, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start just to the left of Freedom Fighter. Climb past 3 bolts and climb slightly right into a crack/corner. Take this to a stance under a roof. Climb out the left side of the roof (or the right side, which is a bit easier to protect). Above the roof is the bolted anchor for Freedom Fighter. Clip it for pro and keep climbing up double cracks and a small corner to loose ledge (careful not to drop anything on your belayer).

Location

Located near the middle of First Cliff. Scramble up onto a large ledge and belay.

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 3" (extra .25" - .75"). 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Phenomenal route. It is steep and intimidating from the bottom and remains so until the very end. It seemed sustained for the grade (with the occasional good rest), but that may just have been the 11,000 foot altitude talking.

Gear is excellent.

Nuts + double cams from thin to #2 with one #3 camalot. Extra finger sized cams for the squeemish (like me) helps.

Our 70m just made it. YMMV with a 60m. But you can always hit the anchors on top of the 11a to get down in two raps. Jul 21, 2012