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Routes in First Cliff

Breathless Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Columbine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flyin' High T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forces of Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freedom Fighter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Living the Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Trad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patricia Lake Grack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie in the Sky T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satin Rose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaft, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sons of Liberty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiz Bang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Graham & St. Marie
Page Views: 2,436 total · 18/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

P1: 10b 110'. Start as for Sons of Liberty, then break right to a parallel set of bolts (mostly next to obvious gear placements) then pull a tricky roof w/ cams in the .3 Camalot range. Continue to a bolted anchor. This pitch is listed in Lewis' guide as an independent route whose name escapes me.

P2: 11b 90'. Step right then up a continuous, exposed crack, mostly fingers to a bolted anchor. The crux is a section of fingerlocks midway. This pitch, which reminded me somewhat of Devils Tower, had a lot of semi-rests.

Descent: rap the route. Heads up: the second rap is a stretcher.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start as for Sons of Liberty.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A lot of small to medium nuts and cams to blue Camalot.


Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
There is a direct start variation for the first pitch. Instead of going up left to the bolt on the pillar and traversing back right, you can head up a gear protected trough on the right side of the belay ledge straight up to the second bolt. It is possible to climb this pitch without clipping any bolts, but the placements appear better than they actually are.
A 3.5 camalot is useful for a short ow section after the crux on the second pitch. Jul 5, 2007
The start described above is probably the most logical.
Can be done as one long pitch with a 60m rope.
The guide includes both pitches in the description of this route (referring to the original description remarks regarding the first pitch). Aug 6, 2009

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