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Routes in First Cliff

Breathless Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Columbine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flyin' High T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forces of Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freedom Fighter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hail Nah! T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Living the Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Trad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patricia Lake Grack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie in the Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satin Rose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaft, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sons of Liberty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiz Bang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Graham & Carkeet
Page Views: 3,215 total · 23/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Four star climbing, but the pitch is docked a star for bolts next to reasonable gear placements.

A steep unnecessarily bolted corner with interesting technical moves to a vertical or steeper hand and finger crack. There is a crux at the end of the corner and another one midway up the crack where it thins to .5 Camalots for a move or two.


On the left side of the crag with some scrambling required to reach the base. (See Lewis' guide for better approach beta.) There is a belay bolt, but we found it worked better to belay a few feet above this.


Five (!) bolts, gear to gold or blue Camalots w/ doubles in fingers and hands.


Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
I think the three upper bolts are warranted, but I placed gear instead of using the first two. Jul 5, 2007
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
No stars deducted here, that is one sweet pitch and the bolts don't take away from it IMO. Aug 21, 2008

the route actually seemed better protected using gear than the bolts. i agree with dougald, although i gave it 4 stars because the climbing makes up for it. sustained, physical, good protection at a fairly high altitude. i was kind of glad it started raining when we got down, so that i could use that as an excuse to head back to the truck for some beer. Jul 12, 2011
This might be my new favorite single 5.10d pitch. Really fun, good rests to be had, perfect protection. I'm not sure the bolts need to be there but I clipped them, you betcha. Jul 17, 2013
Dave McRae
Bend, OR
Dave McRae   Bend, OR
Clip 'em or skip 'em? Who cares. This is an ultra-classic that shouldn't be missed. On the four star scale, this route deserves five! Dec 6, 2016

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