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Routes in First Cliff

Breathless Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Columbine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flyin' High T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forces of Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freedom Fighter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Living the Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Trad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patricia Lake Grack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie in the Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satin Rose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaft, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sons of Liberty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiz Bang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Graham
Page Views: 1,032 total, 8/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 7, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

ML gives this 4* which I felt was somewhat overenthusiastic by the standards of the cliff -- it's not too long and it's a little bit close to the 10a to its left (nature's fault, not the 1st ascensionist's); the pitch will improve with some traffic.

Thin crack climbing up to a bolt (another of questionable necessity) followed by an interesting technical crux. Shortly thereafter the climbing eases and the adjacent 10a comes into play. Finish the pitch by pulling over the right side of a roof.

Location

On the right side of First Buttress. See Lewis for details.

Protection

Small to medium nuts, cams from thin fingers to gold Camalot. The red C3 comes in handy in the middle of the crux. If you like toprope pro, a red RP fits well slightly above the bolt.

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Johnny Y
California
 
Johnny Y   California
 
tried to use the right side crimps + flared jam at the crux and fell, ended up doing something completely different and was way more manageable Jul 6, 2014
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
  5.11b
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
  5.11b
Maybe I was having an off day, but this route seemed difficult for the grade. The gear is good, but the jams are very insecure through the crux. Sep 4, 2013