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Routes in First Cliff

Breathless Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Columbine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flyin' High T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forces of Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freedom Fighter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Living the Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Trad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patricia Lake Grack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie in the Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satin Rose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaft, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sons of Liberty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiz Bang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Eric Sorenson, Barry Oswick, Peter Schultz. 09/03
Page Views: 1,162 total, 9/month
Shared By: outdooreric on Feb 25, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

P1(5.10a): Starts in a shallow left-facing corner with a fixed pin or two visible from the ground. After about 20 feet, move slightly right for a little face climbing past an overlap (crux, another pin) to gain the main big corner that is followed to the top of the tower. Belay at a one bolt and a natural gear anchor at the top of the tower.
I am upgrading this pitch to 5.10a. I thought that after cleaning it would get easier, so I rated it 5.8; it has actually gotten harder!

P2(5.9): Continue up the broken crack system in the same corner until it becomes a chimney. Pulling around the chockstone at the top is the crux. Move right to the P2 anchor for Pie in the Sky and rappel that route.

The name comes from the classic Grack, Center route in Yosemite. My father was on the first ascent of that route and always told me that the name was short for "Grassy Crack". The grass is now long gone, but back then I guess it had some vegetation. This route reminded me of that because there was some veg to clean out and it was also my first multi-pitch first ascent I completed.

Location

The first big dihedral system on the left side of the main cliff. Pitch one climbs to the top of a big tower, pitch two climbs to the top of the cliff.

Protection

There are a couple of fixed pins on the first pitch to help show the way and fill in any gaps in pro. Otherwise, bring cams from micro to 3.5".

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
 
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
 
The first pitch is definitely harder than the 2nd pitch. The chimney is 5.7 at best by Yosemite standards. Jun 30, 2014
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
I wouldn't recommend this route. There are many other warmups to climber's right that are not as loose. Sep 4, 2013
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
i think the book calls the first pitch 5.8 and the second pitch 5.9, which seemed backwards to us. the first pitch was definitely harder. the rock on this route has a unique character, with a lot of vertical seams. this makes, particularly the first pitch, feel pretty technical. avoid groveling into the chimney on the second pitch as there is a pretty loose block/flake in there. the climbing is better, and better protected on the outside. Jul 12, 2011