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Routes in First Cliff

Breathless Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Columbine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flyin' High T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forces of Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freedom Fighter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Living the Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Trad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patricia Lake Grack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie in the Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satin Rose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaft, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sons of Liberty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiz Bang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Postlethwait & Oswick.
Page Views: 419 total, 3/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Jul 3, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Definitely not the best route at Patricia Bowl but possibly the most memorable, it ascends the giant stem box in the middle of the first cliff.

P1: 5.9, ~130'. Vegetated and chossy, close to a bomb. Belay at anchors well up the left side of the shaft.

P2: 11b, ~70'. Needs a lot of cleaning, but quite cool. Up the left corner of the shaft on overhanging rock with a crack that quickly expands from fingers to fists. The crux for me was the thin hands section. At the end of the crack, carefully pull into a rubblely alcove beneath a 5' roof. Again be very careful in this section as you have to move through enough loose rock to qualify as talus with the belayer pinned directly below you. Arrange gear carefully so as to avoid potentially showstopping rope drag then horizontally out the roof w/ good holds and gear to a fantasic ledge, The Sky Lounge, which has fixed anchors on its left side.

Descent: two 100' raps from the anchors described at the end of P2. NOTE: you don't rap the route.

Location

See Lewis. Starts to the right of the shaft itself and diagonals in.

Protection

Small nuts to a fist size cam and plenty of draws and runners. Since the crack expands so quickly on P2, you could get by w/ a single set of cams there. The roof takes medium to large nuts. P1 is long and squirrelly, so you might want double cams there, particularly in sizes smaller than hands.

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