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Routes in First Cliff

Breathless Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Columbine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flyin' High T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forces of Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freedom Fighter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Living the Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Trad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patricia Lake Grack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie in the Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satin Rose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaft, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sons of Liberty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiz Bang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Brian Postlethwait, Matt Theilen 7/2003
Page Views: 269 total, 10/month
Shared By: DennisL on Aug 31, 2015
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The excellent second pitch of this route seems to have it all - balancey moves off bomber finger locks, finger-stacks with great feet, and glory hands to finish it all off!

p1 Up easy ledges and corners. Pass a roof to the right into a right-facing corner. Pass to the left of a nice ledge with 2-bolt anchor with chains, continuing 30' to a two-bolt anchor. Semi-hanging belay with your feet on sharp features and the bolts spread strangely far apart. This pitch could also probably end at the lower anchor. 5.9

p2 Step left from the anchor, then proceed up a sustained crack that varies from fingers to wide hands. 2-bolt anchor with suspect aluminum rap rings is directly in line with the p1 anchor.

Location

40' climber's right of belay platform for Sons of Liberty/Pie in the Sky. We started the route slightly higher than those two routes start. The p2 crack has at least 1 wider (than hands) section that is apparent from the ground.

Descent: 2 raps w/ 60m.

Protection

Standard rack to 3"

Photos

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matthoffman  
 
1st pitch is kinda whack, but 2nd makes it all worth it. Jun 27, 2016