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Living the Dream
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.9 from 59
votes
Routes in First Cliff
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Amnesiac Arete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Breathless Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Columbine T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Flyin' High T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Forces of Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Freedom Fighter T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Golden Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grey Ghost T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hail Nah! T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Living the Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Modern Trad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Patricia Lake Grack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pie in the Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Satin Rose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shaft, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sons of Liberty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Whiz Bang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| GPS: | 37.46302, -118.74537 |
| FA: | Brian Postlethwait and Barry Oswick |
| Page Views: | 3,466 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | old5ten on Jun 30, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Start in the shallow right facing corner just below a foreboding chimney/pod. Climb straight up on cracks and in-cut edges. Undercling and traverse left at small lip/roof left of the chimney/pod. Continue up in the left facing dihedral. There are a couple of (crux) thin sections and there is no need to do any fist jamming. It is possible to finish via a flake going out to the left or go straight up and then do a traverse (directional helpful) to the bolted anchor.
Overall this is a really fun route for the grade, with good pro and nice position. Watch for loose rock, especially when traversing to the belay/rap on top.
Location
Approach via the trail at the lower base of the First Cliff until you reach the far right side (still before the Right Tower). Look for a short, fat chimney/pod in the upper section of the cliff. The route starts in a shallow right facing corner just below the left hand plumb line of the chimney/pod.
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