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Routes in First Cliff

Breathless Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Columbine T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flyin' High T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forces of Nature T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Freedom Fighter T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Living the Dream T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Trad T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Patricia Lake Grack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pie in the Sky T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satin Rose T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shaft, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sons of Liberty T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiz Bang T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Brian Postlethwait and Barry Oswick
Page Views: 978 total · 22/month
Shared By: old5ten on Jun 30, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start in the shallow right facing corner just below a foreboding chimney/pod. Climb straight up on cracks and in-cut edges. Undercling and traverse left at small lip/roof left of the chimney/pod. Continue up in the left facing dihedral. There are a couple of (crux) thin sections and there is no need to do any fist jamming. It is possible to finish via a flake going out to the left or go straight up and then do a traverse (directional helpful) to the bolted anchor.

Overall this is a really fun route for the grade, with good pro and nice position. Watch for loose rock, especially when traversing to the belay/rap on top.

Location

Approach via the trail at the lower base of the First Cliff until you reach the far right side (still before the Right Tower). Look for a short, fat chimney/pod in the upper section of the cliff. The route starts in a shallow right facing corner just below the left hand plumb line of the chimney/pod.

Protection

Double cams to 2" - Lewis/Moynier suggest to 3.5" but we did not use anything larger than a #2 Camalot. If anything, bring more small gear (up to a .75 Camalot). Bolted anchor with links out the left at the top. We rapped with two ropes, a single 70m might be tight (knot ends).

Photos

Lisa Gee  
 
Sweet route. Didn't have a 3.5", so brought a #4 and bumped it through the wide section after the roof. Aug 3, 2016

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