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Routes in (5) Southern Tip

9999 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Amelia Dearheart S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crumble Pie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I'm Your Hate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kunza Korner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sabotage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smith Rock Group Traverse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0+ X
South Park S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stögerific S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Taylor Brook TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yoder Eaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Jim Leland, 99
Page Views: 1,819 total, 20/month
Shared By: ferrells on May 30, 2010 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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42 Opinions

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Description

Not bad for a 5.6. The rock feels like the best parts of Red Wall, and the climbing is actually fun. It starts on a heavily textured slab, and moves into a cool layback.
We took some kids out here. They couldn't do the lay-backing at the top, but had a great time. And it wasn't too bad for the adults: relatively secluded, decent climbing.

Location

Reach the Southern tip by hiking between 25 to 40 minutes, depending on speed, across the bridge, to the left, and past the main area and Phoenix Buttress. When you see an awesome looking dihedral (Kunza Korner), and a few boulders, you are close.
Just around the corner is the Waterfall Slab, which holds this route and two 5.7s (one bolted, another chopped). This is the right-most route on the red rock.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. A bit run-out for the first time leader, I bet.

Photos

JayhooRay  
 
Really fun location for a micro-adventure climb day. Bolt spacing and route finding are adventurous for the grade with a little exposure at the anchors. A good lead for someone getting their skills and head back or a newer leader looking to start steeling their nerves. Great area for TR with kids or new climbers. The boulder garden right on the point is great for lunch and exploring for kids bored with waiting for their turn. Apr 11, 2016
A friend and I are fairly new to leading, and this was a fun and easy one! The 5th bolt is around to the right once you get to the obvious ledge. Where the three bolted routs are is pretty secluded from the main climbing area, so it gets less traffic. Feb 27, 2016
hovpdx
  5.6
hovpdx  
  5.6
This route actually has 5 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. The 5th bolt is up to the right of the top arĂȘte (just a little before the anchors) out of sight when you're climbing. Overall a nice 5.6 route. Apr 21, 2015