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Routes in (5) Southern Tip

9999 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Amelia Dearheart S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crumble Pie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I'm Your Hate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kunza Korner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sabotage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smith Rock Group Traverse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0+ X
South Park S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stögerific S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Taylor Brook TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yoder Eaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,733 total, 12/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 20, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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3 Opinions

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Description

Great arete climb away from the hordes. Shares the same start as Wave of Bliss but stays on the arete.

The first bolt is about 15' up the arete followed by another bolt, then a piton. Once past the piton the climbing becomes much more difficult but well protected.
Technical arete climbing on crimps and smears lead to slightly easier ground just below the anchor.



Location

The stunning arete to the left of Kunza Korner

Protection

draws.

Photos

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
  5.12a
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
  5.12a
Probably the best 12a arete in the park. It feels like an easier version of Last Waltz with comparable movement and rock quality. For sure worth the walk.

I thought that the hardest move (certainly hardest to read) was getting to the pin. Also, WTF? Why is there a fixed pin on a sport climb? I'd vote that it get yanked and replaced by a bolt. On that note, the second bolt seems a little low. (it's only 3-4 feet above the first) I whipped moving to the pin and stopped a foot or so off the deck. (my partner got pulled up and ended up above me) The rope isn't touching the rock at this point, so there's very little friction to distribute impact force. It wouldn't be that hard to clip higher and would make it a much safer lead. (and also possibly negate the need for the piton. Mar 4, 2017
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
Nice looking route Bryson. This thing just get put up? Looks like your pulling hard these days too. I miss Smith, at least Vegas has a few descent things to climb. Cheers Oct 22, 2006
thanks Vern May 8, 2006