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Routes in (5) Southern Tip

9999 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Amelia Dearheart S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crumble Pie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
I'm Your Hate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Kunza Korner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sabotage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smith Rock Group Traverse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0+ X
South Park S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Stögerific S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Taylor Brook TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yoder Eaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: TR, 55 ft
FA: Bob Pasic, 99. Bolts removed by Matt Canham, 2002.
Page Views: 818 total, 9/month
Shared By: ferrells on May 30, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Similar in the feel of the rock and the movement to Amelia Dearheart, Taylor Brook is a decent 5.7. This one holds a bit more lichen and moss, though.
After leading the two routes to its right, TR this one off of the anchors for Amelia Dearheart.
It's too bad that it lost its bolts. It's better than other routes at Smith, and the more easy routes, the better. It spreads out the packs, and allows the area to continue evolving. Maybe there was a good reason(?).

Location

Left of Amelia Dearheart, on the Waterfall Slab at the Southern Tip of the Smith Rock Group.

Protection

TR

Photos

We weren't really sure how this line even counts as a separate route. It is so close to Amelia that its hard to imaging two climbers side by side. Once you are on the slab above any differences seem even further contrived. If you are having a hard time finding all three routes on this slab it's because one of them is just a left handed wander above the slab. Apr 11, 2016