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Southern Tip Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in (5) Southern Tip

L › R R › L A › Z

	9999 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Amelia Dearheart S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Crumble Pie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	I'm Your Hate S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Just the Tip S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Kunza Korner T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sabotage S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Smith Rock Group Traverse T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A0+ X
	South Park S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Stögerific S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Taylor Brook TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Wave of Bliss T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
	Yoder Eaters S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Yoderific S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Elevation:	2,697 ft
GPS:	44.35937, -121.15037 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Bryson Slothower on Mar 17, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

The southern most part of Smith Rock Group (and of Smith Rock), this crag is located where both the trail and Crooked River make a near-180 degree turn and head back north toward Asterisk Pass. When approaching from the front side (from Phoenix Buttress), the first batch of climbs (encountered just before rounding the tip) range in difficulty from 5.10c to 5.12a. For easier climbs, continue around the tip to the section called Waterfall Slab. Southern Tip's most popular route is Kunza Korner (5.10c).

Getting There

From the parking area, hike down and cross the bridge, then turn left. Stay on the low trail and follow the river downstream past the Dihedrals, past the turn off for Asterisk Pass, and past Phoenix Buttress to the very southern tip of Smith Rocks where both the trail and Crooked River make a near-180 turn. Southern Tip starts just before this turn and continues around the corner where the easier climbs of the Waterfall Slab section can be found.
There is a cave like feature at the Tip which offers rain protection and shade from the summer sun.

14 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	(5) Southern Tip Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
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Classic Climbing Routes at Southern Tip

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 113 ● 9999 Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 81 ● Amelia Dearheart Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 102 ● Kunza Korner Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 27 ● I'm Your Hate Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 5 ● Sabotage Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 8 ● South Park Sport

● 9999

113

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport

● Amelia Dearheart

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport

● Kunza Korner

102

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

● I'm Your Hate

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport

● Sabotage

5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport

● South Park

5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport

More Classic Climbs in Southern Tip »

Sun & Shade

Sun Angles Details:

Details: The Waterfall Slab section is shaded in the morning, the harder climbs found before the near-180 degree turn start getting shade mid-afternoon.