Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 892 total · 8/month
Shared By: Dan Petty on Apr 27, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

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Climb 40 feet of a vertical crack system until you reach a large bulge. Undercling or move through the narrow space to gain the left side of the bulge and continue moving up along the crack for another 70 feet.


Start in a crack 50 feet right of Easy Hard and 15 feet left of a large left-facing corner.


Natural Anchors. Fixed webbing/chord for lowering at belay ledge.


ChanVan Schaack
Denver, CO
ChanVan Schaack   Denver, CO
Can anyone say SANDBAG?!? So many happy memories of watching people flail epically on this thing...check yer ego at the door. May 10, 2010
Cary, North Carolina
RebeccaJD   Cary, North Carolina
If you are really short (I am 5'1), a #4 cam would be really nice to protect under the "head jam" part of the climb. I only had a #3, and I basically had to wedge myself in the "jam" part with my feet dangling out into space in order to reach high enough to get the cam in. (If I had a #4, I might have been able to get it in while on tip-toe.) I guess you could skip this pro but you'd have a not-fun fall and the next moves feel difficult the first time.

Also, once my pro was in the "head jam" space, I had to go back down and hold the overhanging rock as a sort of undercling, leaning backwards to get leverage. It doesn't feel extremely secure at first, but it was fine once I committed to it.

I don't know if it is a sand-bagged route, but it's not as straightforward as Wailing Wall the first time up (esp. if you don't have someone there to give you beta.) I think the actual moves are 5.6 but figuring out where and how to go is more difficult than the average NC 5.6. Mar 28, 2011
Agree with the comment about pulling the bulge move. Figuring out the proper way to do the layback around and up the bulge was the hardest part.

Very fun climb! Apr 5, 2011
B Owens  

You can do the crux traverse by reaching your foot far out left to a good foothold, and stemming with the back of your head on the inside of the "head jam" to stay on the rock. It's not as pretty, but it felt less committing to do it this way. Mar 7, 2012
Salt Lake City, UT
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
The 5.5 in the Lambert and Shull guide is a ridiculous sandbag. The "head jam" was every bit of 5.7, even at Moores. I found it stouter than Golden Earring, and not far off Zoo View. May 25, 2013
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
Note that two starts are possible: follow the wide crack straight up to the head jam move per the usual, or start up the arching crack feature out right. A bit of a tricky move transitioning over a bit of blankness but it goes at about the same grade I'd say. Maybe just a touch harder. Dec 5, 2013
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
So much fun. So good for the grade. Amazing rock quality. Dream-weave your way up to a truly special belay ledge looking out over hundreds of miles of NC god country towards the blue ridge mountains. Just a killer climb. Jun 13, 2016
Robert Hutchins  
One of the best routes for the grade at Moore's. The 5.5 grade is the original rating, dating decades before the Lambert guide came out. No way the move is 5.7, but it is tricky, and I wouldn't be surprised if being taller add to how awkward it feels. It's probably a stiff 5.5 or a 5.6. Dozens of people who can't send a Moore's 5.7 have on-sighted this climb. It just isn't a straightforward pulling climb like others in the area. May 26, 2018
Shane Rosanbalm
Chapel Hill, NC
Shane Rosanbalm   Chapel Hill, NC
Used underclings to do the crux. Would describe it as a shuffling layback. Very committing (lean hard into the undercling to make the feet better), but also very secure. I'd put the grade somewhere in the 5+ to 6- range.

I used up my big gear in the first 40 feet (two BD #3s, one BD #4). Not that you have to protect it with big gear, but it sure makes gear finding easier to do it that way. Aug 19, 2018