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Routes in Central Wall

Amazing Spider-Man, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Blue Balls T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Chock T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dolphin Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Hard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hopscotch T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Plastic Cat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Too Much Fun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (Much Too Bored) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Welcome to Moore's T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 550 total, 6/month
Shared By: Dan Petty on Apr 27, 2010
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Climb 40 feet of a vertical crack system until you reach a large bulge. Undercling or move through the narrow space to gain the left side of the bulge and continue moving up along the crack for another 70 feet.

Location

Start in a crack 50 feet right of Easy Hard and 15 feet left of a large left-facing corner.

Protection

Natural Anchors. Fixed webbing/chord for lowering at belay ledge.

Photos

So much fun. So good for the grade. Amazing rock quality. Dream-weave your way up to a truly special belay ledge looking out over hundreds of miles of NC god country towards the blue ridge mountains. Just a killer climb. Jun 13, 2016
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.7
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.7
Note that two starts are possible: follow the wide crack straight up to the head jam move per the usual, or start up the arching crack feature out right. A bit of a tricky move transitioning over a bit of blankness but it goes at about the same grade I'd say. Maybe just a touch harder. Dec 5, 2013
Noah.J
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
Noah.J   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
The 5.5 in the Lambert and Shull guide is a ridiculous sandbag. The "head jam" was every bit of 5.7, even at Moores. I found it stouter than Golden Earring, and not far off Zoo View. May 25, 2013
B Owens  
BETA:

You can do the crux traverse by reaching your foot far out left to a good foothold, and stemming with the back of your head on the inside of the "head jam" to stay on the rock. It's not as pretty, but it felt less committing to do it this way. Mar 7, 2012
Agree with the comment about pulling the bulge move. Figuring out the proper way to do the layback around and up the bulge was the hardest part.

Very fun climb! Apr 5, 2011
RebeccaJD
Cary, North Carolina
RebeccaJD   Cary, North Carolina
If you are really short (I am 5'1), a #4 cam would be really nice to protect under the "head jam" part of the climb. I only had a #3, and I basically had to wedge myself in the "jam" part with my feet dangling out into space in order to reach high enough to get the cam in. (If I had a #4, I might have been able to get it in while on tip-toe.) I guess you could skip this pro but you'd have a not-fun fall and the next moves feel difficult the first time.

Also, once my pro was in the "head jam" space, I had to go back down and hold the overhanging rock as a sort of undercling, leaning backwards to get leverage. It doesn't feel extremely secure at first, but it was fine once I committed to it.

I don't know if it is a sand-bagged route, but it's not as straightforward as Wailing Wall the first time up (esp. if you don't have someone there to give you beta.) I think the actual moves are 5.6 but figuring out where and how to go is more difficult than the average NC 5.6. Mar 28, 2011
Can anyone say SANDBAG?!? So many happy memories of watching people flail epically on this thing...check yer ego at the door. May 10, 2010