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Routes in Central Wall

Amazing Spider-Man, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Blue Balls T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Chock T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dolphin Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Hard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hopscotch T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Plastic Cat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Too Much Fun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (Much Too Bored) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Welcome to Moore's T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 260 total · 5/month
Shared By: Scott Gilliam on Mar 16, 2014
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This link-up has everything a 5.6 climber may not be looking for including a runout start, finicky gear, and a bit of exposure. Begin as for the direct start to Too Much Fun, stepping off a block onto a low angle rock face. Tiptoe up this a ways to an inobvious but key 2.0 Tri-cam placement -- nothing else fits here -- and continue to almost to the base of the Too Much Fun Corner over sparse gear. Then thumb your nose at the TMF crux and traverse right following a thin horizontal to the arete that forms the left side of the Washboard face. Straddle this for a few moves -- nice exposure but not a lot of gear -- and then punch it to the belay ledge.

Location

Begin just right of the traditional Too Much Fun/Blue Chock start where a triangular block that just out of the ground. Pull onto the cliff then step right and tiptoe up the face.

Protection

Thin nuts to medium cams plus belay anchor gear for Washboard. A 2.0 Tri-cam tames an otherwise X-rated run at the start.

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Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
  5.6
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
  5.6
I tackled Too Much Fun after shoulder surgery. Getting shut down at the crux, I downclimbed and bailed right toward Washboard. My buddy and I dubbed the link-up Much Too Bored. Or was that Much to Board? The joke is that if you're tackling this, you clearly have run out of things to do. This line was done many times before we found it, but has high quality rock and good movement. It is worthy of a name and additional traffic. Mar 16, 2014
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
The upper TMF dodge sounds a bit like the harder variation I did on Washboard (and wasn't sure if this was the "real" line). I've got a pic on the washboard page highlighting the line. We were jokingly referring to it as Too Much Washboard. Might have a different cruxy section as the hard part for us was transitioning left off the lower part of washboard onto the arete/left side of the headwall and you wouldn't get that coming in from the TMF side. The gear through there was not fantastic... Mar 24, 2014

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