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Routes in Central Wall

Amazing Spider-Man, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Blue Balls T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Chock T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dolphin Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Hard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hopscotch T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Plastic Cat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Too Much Fun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (Much Too Bored) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Welcome to Moore's T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Buddy Price, K. Savoy - 1973
Page Views: 3,801 total · 29/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Sep 4, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

More proof that there's nothing boring about easy/moderate climbs at Moore's, Easy Hard makes a nice warm-up at the start of the day or a good wind-down after a hard day of climbing. NOTE: despite the 5.5 rating, this is probably not a good choice for a first trad lead.

Follow a crack system up to face climbing and a small overlap; move right and up the face (crux), then continue past a tree ledge to a big tree in a cave-like nook.

Location

Starts about 20' left of Head Jam. Rap from the slung tree at the top.

Protection

Cams and passive pro in the small to medium range; build a gear anchor and/or sling the big tree.
Fun route, definitely not suggested for a 1st lead, routefinding to the ledge above headjam isn't exactly intuitive and the slopery business at the top is kind of freaky. Jun 2, 2008
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.5
Matt Westlake   Durham, NC
  5.5
Near the top, below the roof I went left instead of right today for a nice variant. Couple of exposed moves that dodge the slopey top out and step out over space a bit. A bit harder (6+/7ish) but fun. Protection was a bit interesting but I think it was adequate. May 1, 2011
I missed the traverse right... when I got to the roof and looked right, the traverse didn't look very protectable on the way over to the head jam crack system. I opted to pull the roof, which can be spicy if you're looking for 5.5 or 5.6 climbing. I ended up climbing straight up to another anchor at the top, rapping down to the head-jam ledge and rapping again from there. Certainly not an intuitive traverse. May 14, 2012
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
 
The roof section is definitely what makes this climb interesting. There are some hidden holds, depending on where you go. The roof pull is only slopey for the grade- the holds are good, but definitely not your typical Moore's jugs. May 16, 2016
Olivia Stavros-Tracy
Charlotte, NC
 
Olivia Stavros-Tracy   Charlotte, NC
 
Make sure you rap from the first smaller tree not the higher larger tree if using a 60m because the higher one wont get you even close to the ground. Found that out the hard way (: Oct 17, 2016
Robert Hutchins  
  5.5
Finishing left like Matt mentioned is a good option, and very well protected. It's probably 5.6 and steep, but takes good passive pro. Be sure to place directionals for follower if this variation is taken. May 26, 2018
Shane Rosanbalm  
  5.5
This route is quite long and has a lot of good stemming stances for comfortably placing gear, which lured me into placing more pieces than normal. I used half a dozen tri-cams and wished I had more. I also ran low on smaller cams even with duplicates in many sizes. Load up on smaller gear before setting off on this one.

I agree with the earlier comment that the roof is "only slopey for the grade". Definitely within the 5.5 range. Jul 8, 2018

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