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Routes in Central Wall

Amazing Spider-Man, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Blue Balls T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Chock T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dolphin Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Hard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hopscotch T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Plastic Cat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Too Much Fun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (Much Too Bored) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Welcome to Moore's T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Paul and Robin Kinnaird
Page Views: 3,116 total · 29/month
Shared By: Scott Gilliam on Sep 15, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route

37 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

Head up the left leaning flake at the start. Either build a belay at a good stance above this (before the route diagonals left and up again) or be very mindful of rope drag. After the stance head up and left to the crux. Then bust right from a nice stance on a technical traverse, crux 2. Make for the overhanging corner and land the big tuna out right and belay on gear.

Location [Edit]

Starts left around the corner from Washboard at a left leaning flake shared with the regular start of Too Much Fun. Use your choice of the Washboard descents.

Protection [Edit]

Gear to 2.5 inches, including RPs or similar.


Ben Sachs  
favorite 5.10 at Moores Oct 7, 2009
Sean M
Sean M  
Great climb. Traverse is definitely heady, but not too difficult. Small nuts can help protect it. Would be a 4 star climb if the descent wasn't a PITA. As it is, this climb is a do-once and don't do again route.

Really wish folks would just agree to agree to add a descent option for this area of climbs that doesn't involve highly sketchy down-scrambling, lugging up a second rope, or bushwhacking 15-30 minutes to find your way over to the sentinel buttress rappel station, or left to another descent gully. This last option is probably the most commonly done, and is surely FAR higher negative impact on environment than simply adding an additional rappel station to service Central Wall. Jul 9, 2017
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
The rap station location is shown in a photo for the description of Washboard. Jul 9, 2017
Winston-Salem, NC
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
I always use the rap station at the top of hopscotch. You need to do a second short pitch to get to it safely but it is by far the fastest way off of the Washboard ledge. Look for the tree up and right, there is some fixed gear in a large crack. Jul 13, 2017
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
The scramble descent for this route isn't sketchy. It's straightforward third class/easy fourth, with about five feet total of truly exposed terrain, near the end. Anyone who can lead or follow this route should have absolutely no problem with the descent - it takes maybe 5-10 min once familiar with it. Feb 18, 2018
Will Maness
Raleigh, NC
  5.10b PG13
Will Maness   Raleigh, NC
  5.10b PG13
Be sure to get some solid pro before starting the traverse, try to get something along the way, and have some small nuts handy before pulling over the bulge at the me. Apr 13, 2018

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