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Routes in Central Wall

Amazing Spider-Man, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Blue Balls T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Chock T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dolphin Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Hard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hopscotch T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Plastic Cat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Too Much Fun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (Much Too Bored) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Welcome to Moore's T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Paul and Robin Kinnaird
Page Views: 3,248 total · 30/month
Shared By: Scott Gilliam on Sep 15, 2009
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Head up the left leaning flake at the start. Either build a belay at a good stance above this (before the route diagonals left and up again) or be very mindful of rope drag. After the stance head up and left to the crux. Then bust right from a nice stance on a technical traverse, crux 2. Make for the overhanging corner and land the big tuna out right and belay on gear.

Location

Starts left around the corner from Washboard at a left leaning flake shared with the regular start of Too Much Fun. Use your choice of the Washboard descents.

Protection

Gear to 2.5 inches, including RPs or similar.

Photos

Ben Sachs  
 
favorite 5.10 at Moores Oct 7, 2009
Sean M
  5.10a
Sean M  
  5.10a
Great climb. Traverse is definitely heady, but not too difficult. Small nuts can help protect it. Would be a 4 star climb if the descent wasn't a PITA. As it is, this climb is a do-once and don't do again route.

Really wish folks would just agree to agree to add a descent option for this area of climbs that doesn't involve highly sketchy down-scrambling, lugging up a second rope, or bushwhacking 15-30 minutes to find your way over to the sentinel buttress rappel station, or left to another descent gully. This last option is probably the most commonly done, and is surely FAR higher negative impact on environment than simply adding an additional rappel station to service Central Wall. Jul 9, 2017
dave Hause
carrboro, nc
  5.10
dave Hause   carrboro, nc
  5.10
The rap station location is shown in a photo for the description of Washboard. Jul 9, 2017
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
Benandstuff   Winston-Salem, NC
I always use the rap station at the top of hopscotch. You need to do a second short pitch to get to it safely but it is by far the fastest way off of the Washboard ledge. Look for the tree up and right, there is some fixed gear in a large crack. Jul 13, 2017
Alexander Blum
Charlotte, NC
 
Alexander Blum   Charlotte, NC
 
The scramble descent for this route isn't sketchy. It's straightforward third class/easy fourth, with about five feet total of truly exposed terrain, near the end. Anyone who can lead or follow this route should have absolutely no problem with the descent - it takes maybe 5-10 min once familiar with it. Feb 18, 2018
Will Maness
Carrboro, NC
  5.10b PG13
Will Maness   Carrboro, NC
  5.10b PG13
Be sure to get some solid pro before starting the traverse, try to get something along the way, and have some small nuts handy before pulling over the bulge at the end...trust me. Apr 13, 2018
Luke Cornejo
Durham, NC
 
Luke Cornejo   Durham, NC
 
There seems to be two variations at the top of this route. The most common method is to go about 10 ft right in the traverse and then climb up into the very large hanging corner above you. This will put you finishing above the Washboard ledge. I went too far right in the traverse and ended up finishing at directly on the Washboard ledge. This seems to be what the Carolina Rocks guidebook calls the original line. Super fun either way! Jul 1, 2018
Robert Hutchins
  5.10-
Robert Hutchins  
  5.10-
I second this being the best 5.10 at Moore's. In my view, it isn't even close... unless you consider Quaker State 10+.

Luke, I haven't seen the CR description, but my understanding was that the FA went up the corner, but that they traversed to it, instead of doing the pull midway. That was the way I on-sighted the route... though I do recommend against it. Even the old Kelly guides recommend doing the bulge pull 15' out the traverse, so to me it would be unfortunate if the new guide is adding some confusion to this.

Not sure how anyone can think this descent is a "PITA". A 3-5 minute 3rd class walk-off for a 5.10 route? A rap station in the area would put you into trees and require 2 ropes (climb is probably over 130' vertically). If you just have to rap, as mentioned, there is already a single rope option cliff-right. This has to be one of the quickest and easiest descents for a route under 5.11 at Moore's, and the belay location is pretty spectacular... if slightly inconvenient for the second to pass through. Aug 9, 2018

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