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Routes in Central Wall

Amazing Spider-Man, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X
Blue Balls T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Blue Chock T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dolphin Head T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Easy Hard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Head Jam T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hopscotch T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Plastic Cat T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X
Too Much Fun T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown (Much Too Bored) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Washboard T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Welcome to Moore's T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Seth Tart / Dennis Buice
Page Views: 807 total, 21/month
Shared By: S Tart on Nov 6, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the fondest lines that I have ever been involved with establishing. It has so many of the qualities that make climbing special to me. While sport routes are great, the nature of climbing descends from mind/body/spirit/adventure and this route embodies that mind set. It's completely natural, extremely tall, has impeccable quality, majestic movement and is plenty bold. The runouts are bigger than its neighbor and the falls a little more hazardous but without the distinct crux power necessary for climbing Plastic Cat.
This is an endurance route with no particularly difficult moves. The first half is delicate easier climbing with sketchy gear and a ride you don't wanna take. While the second half is very steep with gear nests followed by one crux sequence after another through continuing overhangs.

Start the same as Plastic Cat, following it's initial traverse left into the center of the wall. Instead of climbing up the obvious Plastic Cat seam, keep traversing left and up towards a roof with a crack under it. Pull the roof and continue climbing straight up the wall through seemingly endless overhangs to the top. Don't traverse left towards the crack system on the far left side of the wall or your getting off route as the line actually stays on the Plastic Cat wall.

Location

Left of Plastic Cat.

Protection

Cams from OOO through 2 inches. Quite a large amount of smaller gear. Nuts and plenty of slings. A #2 slider nut is a must for the traverse left.
S Tart
 
S Tart  
 
Thanks man, helmets are a very personal decision, just as all decisions we make on the wall are. A majority of bold ascents in the past 50 years of free climbing have gone up w/o them as helmet popularity is a relatively new thing and has increased dramatically over the past decade. But helmets are never a bad idea and should certainly be encouraged under any circumstances where they make a climber or belayer feel safer. Jul 26, 2016
Wow man.... Pretty sweet. Can't believe you would climb a 5.11X first ascent without a helmet though. Jul 4, 2016
Seth Tart on 'The Amazing Spiderman', 5.11+X (first ascent)

vimeo.com/111159108 Nov 11, 2014