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Routes in Solarium

Aberration S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Black Hole S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direchossimo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flux Capacitor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flux Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Focus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Morning Wood S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Russian Meteors S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sabado Gigante S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sendero Luminoso S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shocker S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Snake Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Split Descison S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Static Cling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernova S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Venom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Tony Sartin & Terri Condon - April '08
Page Views: 1,382 total, 15/month
Shared By: john durr on Apr 16, 2010
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a great sustained route just left of Sendero Luminoso and right of Morning Wood. It starts with steep juggy rock and slowly gets harder until steep technical face pulling past a small roof at the 7th and 8th bolts. Just after the crux step left then continue up past easier but great climbing.

Location

On the south face of the Solarium, starts just right of Morning Wood.

Protection

11 bolts to hooks. Lower off with one 60 meter rope, stay to the right and watch the end of the rope. This belay anchor provides another option for people descending from Morning Wood or Sendero Luminoso.

Photos

Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11a
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11a
Great route. Have led this several times and always find the crux to be making a clip after climbing above the roof. Apr 26, 2016
Vlad S
  5.11b
Vlad S  
  5.11b
I accidentally got on this thinking it was something else. Was really surprised about the quality. Super sweet route! Dec 2, 2014
terri condon  
 
This route was established in April 2008 by Tony Sartin and Terri Condon. We named it Static Cling and it actually has 11 bolts, with the crux being after the 8th bolt. We rated it 11b, but consensus seems to be 11a by the locals. It has cleaned up really nice and is seeing alot of traffic! Feb 28, 2011
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
FA was by Tony Sartin. Good addition to the cliff. Cleaned up nicely and quickly. May 18, 2010