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Routes in Solarium

Aberration S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Black Hole S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Direchossimo S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flux Capacitor S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Flux Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Focus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Morning Wood S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Power S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Russian Meteors S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sabado Gigante S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sendero Luminoso S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Shocker S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Snake Eyes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Split Descison S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Static Cling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernova S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Venom S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Terri Condon, Steve Elia, Tony Sartin (Feb.14, 2011)
Page Views: 1,012 total · 12/month
Shared By: terri condon on Feb 28, 2011
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Supernova climbs up a vertical, technical face with a crux near its fourth bolt on small crimpers. After the fifth bolt an overhang is encountered. Clip a sixth bolt above the roof, surmount it, and climb a crack up and left joining Focus for its final 2 bolts. Once you reach the main ledge, instead of clipping the anchor bolts for Focus to your left, continue straight up on big holds and very steep rock past 4 bolts to a small ledge. More technical face climbing past 3 bolts leads to a deceptive final sequence to reach the anchors.

Location

Located in the Central Gorge at the Solarium between Focus and Black Hole. You can lower off this route with a 70m rope, or with a 60m rope you can LPL to the Focus anchor.

Protection

15 bolts to a 2-bolt mussy hook anchor

Photos

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G Halsne  
 
LOVED IT!!! Full value all the way! to the chains. But a bit of confusion on where it started lead me accidentally climb the first part of Supernova and clip the Focus chains ( thinking supernova was focus ) So I went back and climbed Focus and then kept climbing the second half of Supernova...the now birthed, UltraClassic- "SuperFocus"

Also- add me to the list of Upgraders- I thought it was almost as hard as Venom and Santana, especially the last 20 Ft. Jan 7, 2015
Jeff Scheuerell
  5.11c/d
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.11c/d
I loved this route! Other than the rock quality through the overhanging section and, in my mind, questionable bolt protecting the last moves before turning the roof this is one of the best routes I have done in the Gorge. Awesome!

The first half to the ledge is 4 stars on its own and in my opinion a much better line than Focus.


But if this route is 11b Marty Party and Venom are 11a. Feb 25, 2014
terri condon  
 
Thanks tom. I fixed it. Mar 7, 2011
Tom Helvie
Bishop, CA
Tom Helvie   Bishop, CA
Hey Terri, just letting you know there's already a route in the gorge named White Dwarf. It's a trad route at the Atilla the Hun Wall. Mar 2, 2011