To the Moon, Alice
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 120 ft|
|Page Views:||332 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Mar 30, 2010|
DescriptionThis route is one of the extensions to "Blue Moon", and departs from its anchor.
The route has some great moves and excellent rock. Unfortuantely they are both guarded by a 10' band of heinous choss that is held together by a mixture of rat feces and swallow's nest. This would merit a bomb if the upper bit weren't so much better. Still, best to avoid this until you are truly desparate for something new, and definitely do not climb it on a crowded day. It may be possible to traverse in from "Cutthroat" to avoid the choss band.
Warm up on Blue Moon's greasy slopers, then carefully move left onto the choss-coverd ledge for a brief rest. This is a good place to re-consider your route choice one last time. Once the belayer's helmet is secure, head straight up the wall to the sketchy horizontal break. Clip a dubious bolt at the lip, then mantel onto the nice flowstone panel. A few comfortized pockets lead up the multi-colored slab that slowly steepens, culminating in a pumpy crux just before reaching the finger crack on the left.