Endeavor to Persevere
Avg: 4 from 7 votes
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||4,056 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Tom Rangitsch on Jul 7, 2008|
DescriptionEndeavor to Persevere tackles the arete on the right side of the Killer Cave. The crux involves hard bouldering to the fourth bolt, probably v8, with the hardest part passing the 4th bolt.
Start on a large boulder, under the roof, on a side pull and a pinch. Jump up to a right hand jug, then surf out to a 4 finger gaston pocket with your left hand. Next you go up right to a vertical three finger pocket. The left hand stops at an intermediate crimp and then up to the clipping hold, a left hand crimp/pocket. Make a hard clip off this hold, then dead point off of it and a right mono, locking off to a right hand pinch/crimp with poor feet. Next go up to the undercling crack and rest here. Falling at the fourth clip would require an attentive belayer to keep you off the large boulder at the base.
There is another 13a crux pulling over the overhang onto the main part of the arete between bolt 6 and 8. It is difficult to clip bolt 8. Make sure you have good beta for this section as it sucks to fall here after having done the difficult entry numerous times (personal experience). There is a decent shake to the left of bolt 9. A 5.12 move a few bolts higher keeps you honest on the redpoint burn.
A variation called Dr. Endeavor (5.13a) skips the boulder problem at the bottom by climbing the first 3 bolts of Bush Doctor and then traversing to the right out the underclings to meet up with the 5th bolt. This is a 3 star route in its own right.