Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Mt. Webster - Winter Ice &

Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2500 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Kurt Winkler, Peter Gamache March 1989
Page Views: 8,640 total, 92/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Feb 22, 2010 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Classic climb in an amazing location. Climb the 2000' of fun super laidback ice up to the Webster cliffs. Route finding is no issue on this one. Move right along a tree ledge until you look up into the Greens proper. The first pitch can be mixed climbing (M1-M2..."feels like 5.5-5.6") depending on variable conditions. The second pitch climbs the main flow that comes down on the left WI3.

There is a rugged looking flow that we'll call Greens Chasm Direct that looks pretty hard. This ice fall comes down on the right through a couple overhangs and crazy looking parasols. Also, there seems to be some great mixed potential up here as well.

Location

Start as for Central Couloir but break right at the headwall. First gulley to the right of Central

Protection

Nuts, screws
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
This one will be best appreciated by those who would rather get a lot of cardio exercise trudging uphill to climb 2-3 pretty good pitches of ice instead of hanging around Frankenstein waiting a turn to sink tools into picked out columns. Jan 17, 2016
Jim Dinan  
 
Climbed Greens on 1/18/2015 and it looks like the upper part of the rock step has fallen into the chasm. Still a fun climb, but the rock step is now much shorter and easier. Jan 22, 2015
Ben Townsend  
 
Elegant climb. A couple of 2-3" cams are nice for the rock step. We didn't see any ice at all on the left above the rock step, but despite the very imposing overhangs and parasols, the ice on the right was only NEI 3 or maybe 3+ at most.

For extra adventure, we climbed a narrow tongue of crusty snow up the friction slabs below, then traversed back into the gully. No idea where we were in relation to the ice routes described in the guidebook; we were mostly just left of the rock route A Bit Short, crossing it right to left down low, then back left to right up high. Technically easy, but the commitment factor was high. Mar 9, 2014
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Booty?!? I'm there! Thanks for the beta, sounds like a really cool spot. Feb 22, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
You can pretty much do anything up there, there is so much ice everywhere it's just a matter of what you want to get into. Any of the slab routes can be done to skip central couloir's lower section. You will just traverse over rom wherever you top out. I've been up there a few times now and I don't think that I could point out any of the slab routes, just aim for bulges and pro. Greens was a lot easier than I expected it to be. I've had some strong friends go up there and have interesting experiences. I really want to try the other finish and also there is just sooooo much rock up there. I may be back up there next weekend to poke around. Oh, I fixed a nut on the rock step if anyone is interested! Feb 22, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
FA: Kurt Winkler, Peter Gamache March 1989. This looks Like a cool Alpine route that I've been hoping to do the past few weeks. I've been wondering if you could link Half Breed into Greens. Any thoughts on that possibility after being up there?! I just don't know if Half Breed terminates to high to get into Greens. Feb 22, 2010