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Routes in Mt. Webster - Winter Ice &

"North Slabs" T WI2-3
Central Couloir T WI3 M1
Gallery Route WI4 M5+
Greens Chasm T WI3 M1-2
Horseshoe Gully WI2-
Landslide Gully WI2-
Pilgrimage, The WI3
Shoestring Gully WI2
Tunnel Zone & Gallery Area Ramp WI2+ M2
Unknown WI4 M3
Type: Ice, Alpine
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,747 total · 38/month
Shared By: Chris Mak on Jan 21, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Begin by climbing talus or snow depending on conditions to the first ice. Continue up several fun WI 1-2 ice steps including a nice steep pillar that is usually present at about mid-height (can be bypassed on easy rock to the right). Above the pillars climb 1-2 more steps of ice before the gully splits, take any of these options at similar difficulty to the Webster Cliff Trail.

To descend turn right (south) on the Webster Cliff Trail back to Rt. 302, then take either the road or the trail that parallels the Saco back to your car.

About 2500 feet bottom to top.

Location

Prominent gully directly across the Saco from the parking lot at the Willey House site. South of Central Couloir. Cross the Saco at the bridge by the parking lot and head for the gully.

Protection

Light rack of screws if inclined.
Kurtz
  WI2+
Kurtz  
  WI2+
Hi Nick! That was us raining debris on you. Sorry about that. The ice was pretty punky in places and a bit harder than the posted WI2-.

The right hand fork started off on beautiful green ice but quickly became a steep bushwhack followed my some sketchy scrambling on chossy rock slabs. We topped out near a very large cairn.

We parked one car at the Willey House Station lot (Appalachian Trail) parking lot (more of a big pull-out). We then piled in the second car, drove one mile north, and parked in the big Willey House lot. We hiked east across the bridge and after about 50 yards, turned right at the Saco River Trail junction. We found a boot trail about 100 yds. from the junction that led us straight to the gully. After topping out, we hiked south on the Webster Cliff Trail (Appalachian Trail) back to the first car. 6.5 hours car-to-car, not hurrying and in relatively easy conditions. Feb 4, 2016
Nick AWL
Boston, MA
 
Nick AWL   Boston, MA
 
Climbed this on January 30, 2016. The approach had light snow and ice covered boulders. Just as in the description there were a few steps of ice down low. These were thin. Following that was more easy ice and snow. There was a party ahead of us that was spitting some ice and rocks down so when they went right at the split up high we went left. After several hundred feet of snow we ended up on some nasty loose rock. The short ice step up high was very thin and was more mixed moves than anything. If the ice looks thin, be careful! We were happy there weren't any parties behind us because with the thin ice and loose rock there were quite a few rocks knocking loose. Feb 1, 2016
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
 
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
 
great route before the snow is too deep Dec 1, 2013