Type: Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jon Sykes? Brady Libby? Others late 90's
Page Views: 1,330 total · 12/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Feb 1, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Thin ice and funky pro in an awesome setting makes this climb one to remember. A long 120' pitch brings you to a large comfortable ledge. The second pitch climbs up ledgy rock and ice to the main flow, this can be climbed easily if there, if not climb the rock with some difficulty on the right. I left a fixed rappel anchor over on the right finish. And I guess I would have left a rap anchor on the big ledge as well.

Location

The left hand side of the butress that splits Central and Greens Chasm there sometimes is a thin, steep line that forms. It is right at the top of the couloir.

Protection

pins, cams, nuts, screws

Photos

Rob Blakemore
Boston, MA
Rob Blakemore   Boston, MA
Any chance that's the one on the right side of this picture? michelleday.com/Site/galler… Dec 6, 2018
Rob Blakemore
Boston, MA
Rob Blakemore   Boston, MA
I got interested in routes between Central and Green's over the summer and went through the NEClimbs and Nice forums trying to figure out where they went. Central has the left finish and central finish which are reasonably obvious. Then somewhere to the right of that is the Winkler variation (4+ 5.8). The Winkler variation may or may not be similar to a few other routes reported over the years.

Kurt Winkler & Peter Gamache did a three pitch mixed line they called "Suave Skeletons"
Al Cattabriga & Brady (or Brady?) Libby did a two-pitch 4+ they called "Smiling On a Cloudy Day"
Sykes and Cunningham reported a route that went up past a vein of prominent "fluorite" crystals.


Links
neclimbs.com/SMF_2/index.ph…
iceclimbingforums.com/archi…
iceclimbingforums.com/archi… Dec 7, 2018
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  WI4 M3
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  WI4 M3
Hey Rob, yes. That does look like the first pitch that we climbed with the second pitch above and to the right.

After talking with folks a few years back I think the line that Brady climbed is the same one.

In either case it is a mint route. Dec 9, 2018
Rob Blakemore
Boston, MA
Rob Blakemore   Boston, MA
Cool, thanks for the info. Dec 17, 2018