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Routes in Mt. Webster - Winter Ice &

"North Slabs" T WI2-3
Central Couloir T WI3 M1
Gallery Route WI4 M5+
Greens Chasm T WI3 M1-2
Horseshoe Gully WI2-
Landslide Gully WI2-
Pilgrimage, The WI3
Shoestring Gully WI2
Tunnel Zone & Gallery Area Ramp WI2+ M2
Unknown WI4 M3
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,035 total, 42/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Feb 1, 2010 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A long snow and ice gully, 1000+', will bring you to a sharp dogleg left once you reach the butress that splits Central and Green Chasm. Continue up the snow gulley till you reach a large steep flow in the back of the gulley (WI 3+/4+). You can also break left at almost any point and climb the broken rock at M1 fun. Or stay left further up the gully till it pinches off in the back, WI3.

Location

Last of the major gullies before the Webster Slabs. The northernmost of the four prominent gullies on Mt. Webster seen from Rt. 302. Park at the Willey House parking lot, or choose to park directly across from the gully on a pull-off nearer to Willey's Slide parking and east of 302. The latter option may be less traveled and present difficulty crossing the Saco River. From Willey House lot cross the bridge and head left, north, toward Central Couloir. Keep heading up the notch until you reach the slabs, then trend up the right hand margin of slabs until you reach the base of the couloir.

[NOTE: If familiar with the "Main Slab" (aka "Lost In the Sun" Slab) in the summer, the bottom reaches of Central Couloir is the gully that runs up the right side of this slab. R Hall NH Admin.]

Protection

Screws

Photos

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
The right hand finish was/is very thin and dry last weekend. Stick with the left hand chimney finish for now. Also, torturous walk off. Rap anything you can! Jan 12, 2011