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Routes in Swirley Boulder

Amnesia V5 6C
Certain Other, The V11 8A
Child of the Storm V13 8B
Da Luvah V7+ 7A+
Jon's Arete V8 7B
Jon's Arete Right V9- 7C
Rat Fish Dyno V11 8A
Rose, The V7 7A+
Sit and Deliver V12 8A+
Slash V6-7 7A+
Stand & Deliver V11- 8A
Swirley Flake V1-2 5
Swirley Slab V1- 5-
Topout Problem, The V9 7C
Uncle Climax V9 7C
Type: Boulder
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 1,571 total, 17/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Feb 21, 2010
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This is a quick one-move wonder for those with a big wingspan and strong fingers. On the face on the backside of the swirly boulder, locate the unusual black triangular pinch. Grab this with your right hand and find one of two sloping dishes out left for your other hand. Put a foot on the wall and dyno for the sloping lip of the boulder. Catch it and top out. It takes nearly a six-foot wingspan just to grab onto the starting holds, so the grade is arbitrary at best - it's v-impossible if your reach is too much less than 6'.

Location

On the backside of the Swirly Boulder next to the Rose.

Protection

Pads and a spot.

Photos

Awesome job, man! Great video, too! Child of the Storm next? Dec 29, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V11+
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V11+
Somehow ended up on the top of this thing. Whether it was luck, skill, or magic I don't know but it was incredible. By far the hardest single move I have ever done. Took me 8 or 9 sessions of effort. Its amazing what you are truly capable of if you set your mind to something. Footage of this climb starts at 1:50. youtube.com/watch?v=Q9HRSmh… Dec 29, 2016
Troy Fauteux
Henniker NH
  V11+
Troy Fauteux   Henniker NH
  V11+
I've spent a lot of time on this thing and although I've hit the lip multiple times I just can't keep my right hand on long enough to control the swing. I recently starting trying this from a jump start and it is way harder than I expected. Grab the R hand starting hold and jump to the lip with your L. Has anyone had any luck with this route from the jump start? If so how the heck do you match the lip on this monster? May 6, 2016
tcamillieri
Denver
 
tcamillieri   Denver
 
maybe more famous, but not necessarily more aesthetic. Mar 7, 2012
Lanky
Tired
Lanky   Tired
It's a hard one-move problem on a boulder with several more famous and aesthetic lines. No surprise to me that it gets no respect. Dec 3, 2011
tcamillieri
Denver
 
tcamillieri   Denver
 
I don't really understand why this boulder only gets one star. The rock is good, the holds are cool, the movement is cool... is it just because it outrageously favors the tall that it should get less stars? Ridic. There is nothing that detracts from this bloc. Dec 3, 2011