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Routes in Swirley Boulder

Amnesia V5 6C
Certain Other, The V11 8A
Child of the Storm V13 8B
Da Luvah V7+ 7A+
Jon's Arete V8 7B
Jon's Arete Right V9- 7C
Rat Fish Dyno V11 8A
Rose, The V7 7A+
Sit and Deliver V12 8A+
Slash V6 7A
Stand & Deliver V11- 8A
Swirley Flake V1-2 5
Swirley Slab V1- 5-
Topout Problem, The V9 7C
Uncle Climax V9 7C
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Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Tim Kemple
Page Views: 4,823 total · 38/month
Shared By: Jeremiah Johnson on Mar 25, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description

One of the best boulder problems anywhere. Great rock and great movement. Start standing with your right hand on the arete and your left hand on the undercling/pinch hold on the face (shorter types may have to stack pads to reach the best spot on the arete). Squeeze hard and get your feet onto the boulder, then start moving up - either left or right hand will work, though going with the right hand first definitely favors taller climbers. Sometimes a heel hook is used on the left. After these first couple moves to get established on the obvious sloper on the face and the better crystally feature on the arete, the difficulty eases off a bit. Deadpoint to the high crimp on the face and work to the top using a heel hook on the arete. Mantel it out and celebrate.

Note: this can also be done from a sit start, at around v12. Start sitting at the obvious holds on the sloping ledgy bit, grab the pinch/undercling with your left hand, bring your feet up high and turn in to make a huge, controlled move to the arete. Then finish the stand start.

Location

On the Swirly Boulder, this is the big, blank-looking, 45-degree overhung arete on the backside of the boulder.

Protection

Pads and spotters - the topout is a little high; not bad but there are some ankle-twister roots under there.

Photos

Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
Since the old video link doesn't work anymore, this climb is in the following video @ the 5:52 mark:
vimeo.com/21846120

and Joel Zerr climbing it from another angle:
youtube.com/watch?v=qDgvVTr…

aaaand Sit and Deliver @ ~2:22:
vimeo.com/56197676 Nov 28, 2011
JEC
Lakewood, Colorado
JEC   Lakewood, Colorado
Another Stand and Deliver video to add to the collection

vimeo.com/54246201 from Jim Chase on Vimeo. Nov 25, 2012
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
Unfortunately it looks like the starting right foothold flake broke off, this picture is from yesterday. I'm not too too familiar with the boulder problem but the breakage seems pretty obvious.
Mar 13, 2015

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