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Between Nothingness and Eternity
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 4
votes
Early Access
Routes in The South Slabs
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Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Bad Boys Bolt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Beer for Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Birdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Black Market T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Blackstreak TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Dirty Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fun Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Funkativity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Go Spuds Go T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Good Girls Don't T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Grey Rat Rocksicle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Raich's South Side Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Shadow Dance S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Slab Happy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sugar Mountain T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Trojan Romance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Two Minds Meet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wigs on Fire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Wildstreak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| GPS: | 40.7143, -105.2934 |
| FA: | Craig Luebben, Malcolm Daly, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 4,301 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Shainman on Jan 27, 2010 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Pete Zagorski, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2025 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Triple Tier, Boston Peak, Grazing Allotment Crag
Details
From the NFS (2/3/25): Seasonal restrictions to protect nesting birds of prey
FORT COLLINS, Colo. (Feb. 3, 2025) – To protect nesting birds of prey, the Roosevelt National Forest began implementing annual closures in several popular recreation areas within the Canyon Lakes and Boulder Ranger Districts on Feb 1, 2025.
On the Canyon Lakes Ranger District, the closure areas include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details.
The Roosevelt National Forest works closely with partners like Colorado Parks and Wildlife, Boulder Climbing Community and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
FORT COLLINS, Colo. (Feb. 3, 2025) – To protect nesting birds of prey, the Roosevelt National Forest began implementing annual closures in several popular recreation areas within the Canyon Lakes and Boulder Ranger Districts on Feb 1, 2025.
On the Canyon Lakes Ranger District, the closure areas include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details.
The Roosevelt National Forest works closely with partners like Colorado Parks and Wildlife, Boulder Climbing Community and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
This is a really good slab with quite a bit of variety, and it's very well-protected! The crux comes right away at the steepest part with a couple super thin, hard cranks, high steps and thumb mantles. When the angle kicks back, the finger holds seem to disappear and it is .11/.10 friction action. The upper section is 5.4ish terrain.
#1 of the "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).
#2 is Frisky Puppies (Donahue/Harvey). A funky, sustained friction-paddling and smedging pitch at Lumpy Ridge on the Book.
#3 is Blood For Oil (also Luebben) on Combat Rock, for a friction slab and patina steep face/slab pitch and a bulge to steep slab 2nd pitch.
Honorable mentions:
- ** Greensleeves on Rock Of Ages (steep slab crimpin')
- ** Radlands Of Infinity on Blob Rock (1st pitch is crux and it's a scratch-fest/ 2nd pitch is thin crack and funky slab---link pitches)
- **Razor Hein Stick on Bitty Buttress (short but fierce friction bumps)
Location
This is on the South Slabs, Lower Tier and off the left side of the mini-ledge. It is the right side water streaks... and the leftmost bolted route.
Protection
Bolts...I would recommend running up the ramp to set up the anchor first (perhaps there is a bolted anchor).
Per Mojo Stylee: "there's no fixed pro past the 3rd bolt (if there still is a third bolt)."
Photos
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