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Routes in The South Slabs

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bad Boys Bolt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Beer for Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Birdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Black Market T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Blackstreak TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Dirty Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Funkativity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Go Spuds Go T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Good Girls Don't T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raich's South Side Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Shadow Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slab Happy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mountain T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Trojan Romance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Two Minds Meet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wigs on Fire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wildstreak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 802 total · 8/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 5, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Grey Rat Rocksickle is a fun slab and crack line that climbs < 10 feet left of Shadow Dance.

Begin on a rock at the base of the slab, 15 or 20 feet "downhill" of the bushes on the upper part of the ledge. Run it out through some 5.8 face moves to a left-angling seam that will offer some small, tricky pro. Continue up the face, connecting protectable features with enjoyable slab climbing. Finish up at the chain anchors beneath the roof, or belay there and climb a second pitch through the crumbly, licheny left side of the roof above and continue to the summit.

Location

This line is located on the upper tier of the South Slabs and climbs the face just left of the right-most line of bolts on the wall to gain a thin crack that angles up and left. Approach via any of the routes on the lower tier, Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry being a convenient, fun option, as it ends almost immediately below this route.

Protection

Bust out the small stuff for this climb. RPs, small cams, and maybe offsets (nuts and/or cams) are definitely necessary to protect the seam. Above that, the pro continues to be small and tricky. Clipping the first two bolts of Shadow Dance takes the spice out of the opening runout, if you're so inclined.

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