Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry
Avg: 3 from 7 votes
Routes in The South Slabs
|Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Bad Boys Bolt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Beer for Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Birdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Black Market T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Blackstreak TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R|
|Dirty Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fun Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Funkativity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Go Spuds Go T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Good Girls Don't T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|Grey Rat Rocksicle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Raich's South Side Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Shadow Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Slab Happy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sugar Mountain T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Trojan Romance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Two Minds Meet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Wigs on Fire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Wildstreak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 125 ft|
|FA:||Steve Allen & partner, 1970s|
|Page Views:||2,768 total, 29/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 5, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis super-fun slab line mixes it up between Flatirons-esque friction and classic granite edging to offer a leader of any level a very enjoyable pitch of climbing.
Begin on the flake just right of Two Minds Meet by reaching up and grabbing some huge, delightfully tacky crystals in a shallow groove. Climb the groove until it runs out, and transition to a section of friction moves for a few bolts before reaching a horizontal break, after which the angle, and difficulty, progressively eases.
This line originally went at 5.7 X, but was retrobolted sometime fairly recently (hangers and bolts are free of corrosion or rust). While this climb is now an excellent beginner sport lead, it is, unfortunately, also very out of character for the area, with a bolt every ~6 feet, even through 5.5/5.6 terrain.
LocationAunt Edna's Costume Jewelry ascends the moderate face between Two Minds Meet and Between Nothingness and Eternity on the lower tier of the South Slabs.
ProtectionYou need more than a 70m rope!
Per Mojo Stylee: as of Feb. 19, 2011, all of the bolts but one, including the anchors, have been removed from this route.