Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry
Avg: 3 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, 125 ft|
|FA:||Steve Allen & partner, 1970s|
|Page Views:||2,782 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 5, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis super-fun slab line mixes it up between Flatirons-esque friction and classic granite edging to offer a leader of any level a very enjoyable pitch of climbing.
Begin on the flake just right of Two Minds Meet by reaching up and grabbing some huge, delightfully tacky crystals in a shallow groove. Climb the groove until it runs out, and transition to a section of friction moves for a few bolts before reaching a horizontal break, after which the angle, and difficulty, progressively eases.
This line originally went at 5.7 X, but was retrobolted sometime fairly recently (hangers and bolts are free of corrosion or rust). While this climb is now an excellent beginner sport lead, it is, unfortunately, also very out of character for the area, with a bolt every ~6 feet, even through 5.5/5.6 terrain.
LocationAunt Edna's Costume Jewelry ascends the moderate face between Two Minds Meet and Between Nothingness and Eternity on the lower tier of the South Slabs.
ProtectionYou need more than a 70m rope!
Per Mojo Stylee: as of Feb. 19, 2011, all of the bolts but one, including the anchors, have been removed from this route.