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Routes in The South Slabs

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bad Boys Bolt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Beer for Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Birdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Black Market T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Blackstreak TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Dirty Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Funkativity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Go Spuds Go T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Good Girls Don't T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raich's South Side Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Shadow Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slab Happy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mountain T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Trojan Romance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Two Minds Meet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wigs on Fire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wildstreak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Steve Allen & partner, 1970s
Page Views: 2,768 total, 29/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 5, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This super-fun slab line mixes it up between Flatirons-esque friction and classic granite edging to offer a leader of any level a very enjoyable pitch of climbing.

Begin on the flake just right of Two Minds Meet by reaching up and grabbing some huge, delightfully tacky crystals in a shallow groove. Climb the groove until it runs out, and transition to a section of friction moves for a few bolts before reaching a horizontal break, after which the angle, and difficulty, progressively eases.

This line originally went at 5.7 X, but was retrobolted sometime fairly recently (hangers and bolts are free of corrosion or rust). While this climb is now an excellent beginner sport lead, it is, unfortunately, also very out of character for the area, with a bolt every ~6 feet, even through 5.5/5.6 terrain.

Location

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry ascends the moderate face between Two Minds Meet and Between Nothingness and Eternity on the lower tier of the South Slabs.

Protection

You need more than a 70m rope!

Per Mojo Stylee: as of Feb. 19, 2011, all of the bolts but one, including the anchors, have been removed from this route.

Photos

Anyone know if the bolts have been replaced? Sep 19, 2017
IDK what I am doing
Fort Collins, CO
IDK what I am doing   Fort Collins, CO
Is it back to an X rating now? Oct 6, 2015
Mojo Stylee
Ft. Collins, CO
Mojo Stylee   Ft. Collins, CO
As of Feb. 19, 2011, all of the bolts but one, including the anchors, have been removed from this route. Feb 22, 2011
Rodney Ley  
 
I noted today that a party with a brand new Edelweiss rope labeled 70m on the tip was in fact one meter shy of reaching the ground. They did fine with rope stretch on their rap.

My Sterling 9.8 rope (labeled 70m) just barely touched the ground. So I agree, with care, a 70m rope should do fine. Jul 10, 2010
ErikJohnson
Fort Colllins
 
ErikJohnson   Fort Colllins
 
You can rap from the chains with a 70m. It takes you to the top of a flake to the right of the route, where you can easily down climb, but yes you need to be careful not to fly off the end of your rope. I agree with Tanner though, it is just as easy to walk off. Mar 9, 2010
Tanner Mitchell
Fort Collins CO
 
Tanner Mitchell   Fort Collins CO
 
The new Poudre guide recommends a 70m rope to rap or TR from the chains, but today I witnessed that 70 meters leaves you 7-10 feet off the deck. No fall/injuries thanks to an attentive belayer, but I thought it was quite easy to belay the second up and walk off the ramp. Mar 6, 2010