Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
Routes in The South Slabs
|Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Bad Boys Bolt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Beer for Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Birdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Black Market T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13|
|Blackstreak TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R|
|Dirty Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Fun Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Funkativity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Go Spuds Go T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Good Girls Don't T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X|
|Grey Rat Rocksicle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Raich's South Side Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|Shadow Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Slab Happy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sugar Mountain T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R|
|Trojan Romance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Two Minds Meet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Wigs on Fire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Wildstreak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||J. Bassett, D. Braddy, 1982|
|Page Views:||702 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 6, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe right side of the Lower Tier of the South Slabs, while it seems steep, is well-featured enough to allow for a couple of very enjoyable, moderate face routes, of which Birdland is one.
Begin near a crystalline pothole of sorts in the wall beneath three overly-close bolts - clip the second with a long sling (you'll likely regret clipping the first due to rope drag issues near the top of the pitch), and make some 8/9 moves directly left into a bejeweled groove. Step up the groove, passing a couple bolts along the way, until a crack in a right-facing feature is visible just to the left. Make crux friction moves left to this crack, sink a couple nuts, and then run it through more thin friction moves, stepping left into a water streak before gaining easier ground to the belay bolts.
LocationBirdland is one of two moderate slab lines on the right margin of the Lower Tier of the South Slab. The start is easily identified by a pothole in the wall with two closely-spaced bolts immediately above. The line continues up a crystalline groove six feet left of the initial bolts.
Protection4 bolts (clip the first one if you really feel like, avoid it to minimize drag) and a set of stoppers will get you through this pitch. You also might want to bring along a good set of nuts.
Per Mojo Stylee: "all anchors and anchor bolts and chains have been removed for all of the climbs in this immediate area, from Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry through Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland); most bolts if not all at this point have been removed."