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Routes in The South Slabs

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bad Boys Bolt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Beer for Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Birdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Black Market T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Blackstreak TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Dirty Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Funkativity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Go Spuds Go T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Good Girls Don't T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raich's South Side Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Shadow Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slab Happy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mountain T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Trojan Romance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Two Minds Meet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wigs on Fire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wildstreak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,476 total · 22/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on May 30, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is a fun, easy climb up Greyrock's South Slabs that ascends the right margin of the upper slab, aiming for a corner and small roof at its upper right side.

P1 - face climb up the water streaks left of the end of the slab. There is no obvious pro for probably 30+ feet, but the climbing doesn't exceed 5.3 or 5.4. Continue up through intermittent flakes and seams, following the path of least resistance. Belay on a small ledge at a horizontal break in the face.

P2 - climb the corner and adjacent crack to right beneath the roof. Traverse right under the roof and pull up on a nice ledge. Belay here, or continue up cracks to wherever you please.

Stewart Green's "Rock Climbing Colorado" advises a downclimb descent to the southwest. However, one can easily link up climbable features anywhere from 3rd/4th class to 5.8 and reach the summit.

Location

This route is on the second tier of Greyrock's south slabs. Approach as for Fun Flake and climb that or any of the lower slab routes to the second tier, or scramble up the gully climber's left of that route. Begin on the far right side of the upper slabs and climb up the face, aiming for a left-facing corner and small roof above.

Protection

A standard rack up to #4 Friend/Camalot will do just fine. If 5.5 is far under your limit, you can absolutely get away with a light rack including a fist-sized piece.

Photos

Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
A really mellow/enjoyable solo. This is my new standard hiking route up Greyrock! Fun fun fun!

Oh so sweeeeeeeet!!! - Sugar Mountain :) Woo hoo! Oct 31, 2010
Rodney Ley 1
Fort Collins, Colorado
 
Rodney Ley 1   Fort Collins, Colorado
 
An agreeable route I had not done before. The R rating for the first pitch is not bad at all with a modern rack of micro cams. May 6, 2017

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