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Routes in The South Slabs

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bad Boys Bolt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Beer for Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Birdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Black Market T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Blackstreak TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Dirty Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Funkativity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Go Spuds Go T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Good Girls Don't T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raich's South Side Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Shadow Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slab Happy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mountain T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Trojan Romance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Two Minds Meet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wigs on Fire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wildstreak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Not sure, likely bolted by Craig Luebben.
Page Views: 774 total · 7/month
Shared By: TJ Quirk on Jun 22, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a top rope only climb. It is a slab with little pencil-eraser granite nubs to get some friction on. Stay in the black streak.

It was the hardest climb I did before I slowed down for many years.

This is in Craig Luebben's "A Climber's Guide to Greyrock".

Updated: I miss Craig.

Location

Start about 10' right of where Fun Flake tops out. This is the obvious black streak on second tier of south slabs.

Protection

Two bolts at top. To protect with toprope: Climb up Grey Rat Rocksicle (5.8) about 20 feet right of Blackstreak. It slabs to a lower angle on top, traverse left over to bolt anchors on BlackStreak. Set toprope and enjoy!

Photos

TJ Quirk
Parker, CO
 
TJ Quirk   Parker, CO
 
The rating is from the guidebook, and it gets three stars because it's a personal favorite. Jun 23, 2009

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