Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: Craig Luebben, Malcolm Daly, 1989
Page Views: 2,519 total · 23/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jan 27, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This is a really good slab with quite a bit of variety, and it's very well-protected! The crux comes right away at the steepest part with a couple super thin, hard cranks, high steps and thumb mantles. When the angle kicks back, the finger holds seem to disappear and it is .11/.10 friction action. The upper section is 5.4ish terrain.

#1 of the "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).
#2 is Frisky Puppies (Donahue/Harvey). A funky, sustained friction-paddling and smedging pitch at Lumpy Ridge on the Book.
#3 is Blood For Oil (also Luebben) on Combat Rock, for a friction slab and patina steep face/slab pitch and a bulge to steep slab 2nd pitch.

Honorable mentions:
  • ** Greensleeves on Rock Of Ages (steep slab crimpin')
  • ** Radlands Of Infinity on Blob Rock (1st pitch is crux and it's a scratch-fest/ 2nd pitch is thin crack and funky slab---link pitches)
  • **Razor Hein Stick on Bitty Buttress (short but fierce friction bumps)

Location

This is on the South Slabs, Lower Tier and off the left side of the mini-ledge. It is the right side water streaks... and the leftmost bolted route.

Protection

Bolts...I would recommend running up the ramp to set up the anchor first (perhaps there is a bolted anchor).

Per Mojo Stylee: "there's no fixed pro past the 3rd bolt (if there still is a third bolt)."

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