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Routes in The South Slabs

Aunt Edna's Costume Jewelry T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Bad Boys Bolt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Beer for Breakfast T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Between Nothingness and Eternity T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Birdland T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Black Market T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Blackstreak TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Dirty Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fun Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Funkativity T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Go Spuds Go T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Good Girls Don't T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Grey Rat Rocksicle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Jazzman (a.k.a. Turdland) T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Raich's South Side Route T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Shadow Dance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slab Happy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sugar Mountain T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Trojan Romance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Two Minds Meet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wigs on Fire T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Wildstreak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: Craig Luebben, Malcolm Daly, 1989
Page Views: 2,311 total, 24/month
Shared By: Alex Shainman on Jan 27, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a really good slab with quite a bit of variety, and it's very well-protected! The crux comes right away at the steepest part with a couple super thin, hard cranks, high steps and thumb mantles. When the angle kicks back, the finger holds seem to disappear and it is .11/.10 friction action. The upper section is 5.4ish terrain.

#1 of the "CO Northern Front Range 5.12 Pure Slab Trilogy" (my suggestions and all non-Splatte routes).
#2 is Frisky Puppies (Donahue/Harvey). A funky, sustained friction-paddling and smedging pitch at Lumpy Ridge on the Book.
#3 is Blood For Oil (also Luebben) on Combat Rock, for a friction slab and patina steep face/slab pitch and a bulge to steep slab 2nd pitch.

Honorable mentions:
  • ** Radlands Of Infinity on Blob Rock (1st pitch is crux and it's a scratch-fest/ 2nd pitch is thin crack and funky slab---link pitches)
  • **Razor Hein Stick on Bitty Buttress (short but fierce friction bumps)

Location

This is on the South Slabs, Lower Tier and off the left side of the mini-ledge. It is the right side water streaks... and the leftmost bolted route.

Protection

Bolts...I would recommend running up the ramp to set up the anchor first (perhaps there is a bolted anchor).

Per Mojo Stylee: "there's no fixed pro past the 3rd bolt (if there still is a third bolt)."

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