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Routes in Mokule'ia Wall

A Sicker Red Slick S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
All ItÂ’s Cracked Up to Be S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Pigs are Created Equal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ambulance Driver T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beat the Burn S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Tower S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blankety Blank S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bug Walk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Burnt Offerings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cactus Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Garden S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chunky Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confusion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Copper Dragon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Devil's Triangle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Dragon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Dr. Hook S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dragon Cock-6 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dragon Slayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dragon's Breath S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragon's Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dragon's Spine S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Easy Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Einstein's Bike S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Eureka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face Over Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face The Music S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fission S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Flower Tower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Flower Tower (Variation) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Funky Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fusion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
God Machine, The TR 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guillotine T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Immortal's Path S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Insecticide S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mid-Level Provider Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mission Impossible S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mission Nearly Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Year's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurse Hook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pig Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainy Wish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Tower of Pain TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rocky Road T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shark Fin, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a PG13
Silver Dragon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sissy Blaster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slice of Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smokestack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Spice of Life S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Submarine Driver TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
They Will Eat Cake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Torpedoed Youth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trinity S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unnamed Open Project TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Vegetable Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wavy Gravy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Weenie Roast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,351 total · 13/month
Shared By: 20 kN on Nov 14, 2009
Admins: 20 kN

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Access Issue: Area Reopened Details

Description

Start on a tricky face and work your way past two bolts down low. Continue in the crack, protecting yourself on gear, and work your way to the 3rd bolt. Make sure you protect the upper section of the crack as there is a tricky move right before the 3rd bolt. Clip the bolt, and pull yourself on a ledge to clip the 4th. Rest as the next move is the crux! Fire a dynamic move right before the anchors and hope you stick it otherwise you're off!

Protection

Mixed sport lead - 4 bolts, one each #0.5, #0.75, #1 Camalot.

Photos

Eric "Pig" Varley
Nipomo, CA
 
Eric "Pig" Varley   Nipomo, CA
 
Fantastic route with a lot of variety. I'd give it 3-stars, missing the one due to the start being a bit of an awkward stem that just wants to spit you out.

I cannot emphasize enough the need for additional pro if you are going to lead this route. A ground fall is possible at the top of the runnout. The crack will take anything from 0.5"-1". Sep 17, 2012
Steven N   CO
FA by Jon Robb in 2002. I Had found the line, cleaned it up and Bugman bolted it for me. I was working it when Jon asked if he could complete it. I gave him the okay and he sent it. I was working at AMR Ambulance at the time so that's why he named "Ambulance Driver" Oct 24, 2014

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