Type: Trad, Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,406 total · 13/month
Shared By: 20 kN on Nov 14, 2009
Admins: 20 kN

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Area Reopened Details

Description

Start on a tricky face and work your way past two bolts down low. Continue in the crack, protecting yourself on gear, and work your way to the 3rd bolt. Make sure you protect the upper section of the crack as there is a tricky move right before the 3rd bolt. Clip the bolt, and pull yourself on a ledge to clip the 4th. Rest as the next move is the crux! Fire a dynamic move right before the anchors and hope you stick it otherwise you're off!

Protection

Mixed sport lead - 4 bolts, one each #0.5, #0.75, #1 Camalot.

Photos

Eric "Pig" Varley
Nipomo, CA
 
Eric "Pig" Varley   Nipomo, CA
 
Fantastic route with a lot of variety. I'd give it 3-stars, missing the one due to the start being a bit of an awkward stem that just wants to spit you out.

I cannot emphasize enough the need for additional pro if you are going to lead this route. A ground fall is possible at the top of the runnout. The crack will take anything from 0.5"-1". Sep 17, 2012
Steven N   CO
FA by Jon Robb in 2002. I Had found the line, cleaned it up and Bugman bolted it for me. I was working it when Jon asked if he could complete it. I gave him the okay and he sent it. I was working at AMR Ambulance at the time so that's why he named "Ambulance Driver" Oct 24, 2014