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Routes in Mokule'ia Wall

A Sicker Red Slick S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
All It’s Cracked Up to Be S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Pigs are Created Equal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ambulance Driver T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beat the Burn S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Tower S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blankety Blank S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bug Walk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Burnt Offerings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cactus Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Garden S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chunky Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confusion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Copper Dragon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Triangle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Dragon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Dr. Hook S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dragon Cock-6 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dragon Slayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dragon's Breath S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragon's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dragon's Spine S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Einstein's Bike S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Eureka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face Over Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face The Music S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fission S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Flower Tower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Flower Tower (Variation) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Funky Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fusion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
God Machine, The TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guillotine T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Immortal's Path S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Insecticide S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mid-Level Provider Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mission Impossible S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mission Nearly Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Year's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurse Hook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pig Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainy Wish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Tower of Pain TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rocky Road T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Shark Fin, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Silver Dragon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sissy Blaster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slice of Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smokestack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Spice of Life S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Submarine Driver TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
They Will Eat Cake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Torpedoed Youth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trinity S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unnamed Open Project TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Vegetable Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wavy Gravy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Weenie Roast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: LD
Page Views: 302 total, 26/month
Shared By: Permabeta on Dec 25, 2016
Admins: 20 kN

You & This Route


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Area Reopened Details

Description

At the end of Dragon's Spine, six clips extend to the anchor of DC-6. Step right off the top of Dragon's Spine arête to the thin dihedral/face, and ascend a couple bolts to slightly overhanging terrain. The next two bolts are the crux, traversing left on crimps/pocket to a small ledge. Then grovel your way up an awkward dihedral to the anchor.

Location

Climber's left of the upper part of Copper Dragon, a ledge on which can provide a rest before the crux sequence. Leaders should leave a redirect or two to prevent followers on TR from swinging into Copper if they fall.

A more difficult variation of the route ascends Silver Dragon (between Dragon's Spine and Copper Dragon). It is a bit run out between the 5th and 6th bolts if you miss clipping the Dragon's Spine anchor, which is easy to do if you remain in the dihedral .

Protection

Sport, 11 bolts.

Photos

20 kN

  5.12a
20 kN    
  5.12a
The route is better than I initially expected. The rock quality is not spectacular, but the movement is pretty solid and climbing through the grey thin seam around bolts 7-8 is pretty seller. The route is fairly sustained in the upper section and leaves a nice surprise for you right before the last bolt. While it's not the hardest .12a at the crag it's certainly not the easiest either. I'd give it 2.5 stars. Apr 30, 2017