Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: LD
Page Views: 430 total · 18/month
Shared By: Permabeta on Dec 25, 2016
Admins: 20 kN

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Area Reopened Details

Description

At the end of Dragon's Spine, six clips extend to the anchor of DC-6. Step right off the top of Dragon's Spine arête to the thin dihedral/face, and ascend a couple bolts to slightly overhanging terrain. The next two bolts are the crux, traversing left on crimps/pocket to a small ledge. Then grovel your way up an awkward dihedral to the anchor.

Location

Climber's left of the upper part of Copper Dragon, a ledge on which can provide a rest before the crux sequence. Leaders should leave a redirect or two to prevent followers on TR from swinging into Copper if they fall.

A more difficult variation of the route ascends Silver Dragon (between Dragon's Spine and Copper Dragon). It is a bit run out between the 5th and 6th bolts if you miss clipping the Dragon's Spine anchor, which is easy to do if you remain in the dihedral .

Protection

Sport, 11 bolts.

Photos

20 kN

  5.12a
20 kN    
  5.12a
The route is better than I initially expected. The rock quality is not spectacular, but the movement is pretty solid and climbing through the grey thin seam around bolts 7-8 is pretty seller. The route is fairly sustained in the upper section and leaves a nice surprise for you right before the last bolt. While it's not the hardest .12a at the crag it's certainly not the easiest either. I'd give it 2.5 stars. Apr 30, 2017