Blankety Blank
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 15 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 3,614 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | 20 kN on Nov 14, 2009 |
Admins: | 20 kN |
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Access Issue: Electronic Waver
Details
As of January 25, 2015, the Moke has been reopened after a lengthy challenge in obtaining a permit to climb at this area . All climbers are required to sign an electronic waver before climbing at the Moke. You can find the waver here:
hiclimb.org/join.php
Access at this area is fragile. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.
Please note the following rules:
- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on the approach, and in the parking lot.
- No fires
- Do not deface the cliff
- No amplified music
In addition, please show the state we are good stewards of the land by following the following guidelines:
- Treat other users with respect
- Help clean up chalk and tick marks
- Identify and report safety hazards
- Stay on established trails
- Dispose of human waste appropriately and pack out toilet paper
- Keep a low profile by minimizing noise
- Pack out all gear, rubbish, and practice leave no trace ethics
hiclimb.org/join.php
Access at this area is fragile. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.
Please note the following rules:
- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on the approach, and in the parking lot.
- No fires
- Do not deface the cliff
- No amplified music
In addition, please show the state we are good stewards of the land by following the following guidelines:
- Treat other users with respect
- Help clean up chalk and tick marks
- Identify and report safety hazards
- Stay on established trails
- Dispose of human waste appropriately and pack out toilet paper
- Keep a low profile by minimizing noise
- Pack out all gear, rubbish, and practice leave no trace ethics
Description
Cool climb! This is the route to the right of Fusion. It shares the same first bolt as Fusion. Right off the ground, encounter technical and delicate stemming. Encounter a challenging clip at the second bolt (make sure your belayer is on it), then pull the lower crux right after the second bolt. The lower crux involves thin and delicate smearing and stemming with a fun palming move. Continue on sustained terrain until you reach the roof where you can grab a rest on a jug. Then continue up and over the overhang (upper crux), masterfully finding the hidden crimp right at the top of the overhang, and then continue on easier terrain to the top.
This route is a good project before going for Torpedoed Youth as it is similar but slightly easier.
This route is a good project before going for Torpedoed Youth as it is similar but slightly easier.
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