Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,256 total · 11/month
Shared By: 20 kN on Nov 14, 2009
Admins: 20 kN

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Access Issue: Area Reopened Details

Description

Start by climbing the first few feet of New Year's Crack until you can reach over and clip bolt one on New Year's crack. Once you clip the first bolt, cut straight right over to bolt two. Then continue on balancey moves to join Dr. Hook at the top and finish on the Dr. Hook anchor.

Variation (5.11b): Nurse Hook Direct; instead of starting on the left on New Year's Crack, start under the first bolt and head straight up the face. The variation is only relevant to the first bolt, after that you're on the standard Nurse Hook line. This is probably the easiest 5.11a at The Moke and a great first 5.11 lead.

Protection

Sport. Optional #2 Camalot to tame a runout at the top.

Photos

Matt Nelson
Pueblo, CO
  5.11a
Matt Nelson   Pueblo, CO
  5.11a
A very fun, well protected route. If you not comfortable leading at this grade, then definitely try it on top rope. Feb 25, 2011