Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,341 total · 39/month
Shared By: 20 kN on Nov 14, 2009
Admins: 20 kN

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Access Issue: Area Reopened Details

Description

One of the most popular routes in the entire state. Start by following a crack that quickly leads from fingers to fists within a few feet. You don't have to use the crack if you dont want to as there are plenty of face holds. Eventually pull onto a small slab ramp and follow a fist crack to a small roof. Mantle the roof and then cut LEFT after clipping the last bolt. Do not continue going straight up and right as many climbers mistakenly do. Place an optional #2 Camalot in the horizontal slot at the top to tame a small runout at the top if you wish. You can also place a #3 Camalot in the lower fist crack if you want to protect the first few moves before the first bolt. The first bolt might be a tad tricky to spot as it's about 15' up. An optional easier start is listed on the topo. Start on the climb on the right side of the formation. This side is slightly easier than starting left by the crack, but it offers less options for trad placements before the first bolt.

Protection

Sport. Optional #2 Camalot in horizontal crack up top to help tame a small runout and a #3 down low to protect the start before the first bolt. The route can be done entirely on trad gear if you want.

Photos

Chris Blodgett
seattle
 
Chris Blodgett   seattle
 
I found this to be a really enjoyable route. I did not lead this but the lip makes for a really fun move. Lots of smearing. Dec 15, 2015
Adam Schmidt SLC   SLC,UT
Fun route, gear in good condition, but seriously needs a lower 1st bolt. Dec 24, 2016
Dan Petty
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
Dan Petty   Wheat Ridge, CO
 
Watch for loose blocks above the roof. Mar 9, 2017
Derek Field
California
  5.8
Derek Field   California
  5.8
This route does not need bolts. It should be a trad line. Continuous cracks offer reliable cam placements the whole way up. I used doubles .75 to 3 camalot and it was plenty. Regardless, if climbing this as a sport route, do not forget the #2 cam for the horizontal near the top. Would be a horrific fall back under the lip if you botched the not-so-obvious swing-across move to the chains. May 21, 2017
Is there hike off access at the top or are you rapping from the bolts? 70m rope do it? Sep 13, 2018
20 kN

  5.8
20 kN    
  5.8
No, there is no walk-off. Routes at this crag are rap-offs. You do not need a 70m rope to climb any route at this crag. Sep 17, 2018
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
I'm going to agree with Derek on this one... If I had to choose between leading it on only gear or only the bolts I would choose gear. Obviously, utilizing both is safer but if you're looking for a 5.8 trad lead? Well this one is weirdly probably a good one to try. Dec 24, 2018