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Routes in Mokule'ia Wall

A Sicker Red Slick S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
All ItÂ’s Cracked Up to Be S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Pigs are Created Equal S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ambulance Driver T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Beat the Burn S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Black Tower S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blankety Blank S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bug Walk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Burnt Offerings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cactus Arete TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cactus Garden S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chunky Monkey T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Confusion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Copper Dragon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Triangle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Double Dragon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Dr. Hook S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Dragon Cock-6 S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dragon Slayer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dragon's Breath S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dragon's Fire S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dragon's Spine S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easy Rider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Einstein's Bike S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Eureka T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face Over Crack T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face The Music S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fission S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Flower Tower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Flower Tower (Variation) TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Funky Monkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fusion S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
God Machine, The TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Guillotine T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Immortal's Path S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Insecticide S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Mid-Level Provider Hook TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Mission Impossible S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mission Nearly Impossible S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Year's Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nurse Hook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pig Tree S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainy Wish S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Red Tower of Pain TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rocky Road T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
S-Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Shark Fin, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Silver Dragon S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sissy Blaster S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slice of Death S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Smokestack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Spice of Life S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Submarine Driver TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
They Will Eat Cake T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Torpedoed Youth S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trinity S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Unnamed Open Project TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Vegetable Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wavy Gravy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Weenie Roast S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,541 total, 36/month
Shared By: 20 kN on Nov 14, 2009
Admins: 20 kN

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Area Reopened Details

Description

One of the most popular routes in the entire state. Start by following a crack that quickly leads from fingers to fists within a few feet. You don't have to use the crack if you dont want to as there are plenty of face holds. Eventually pull onto a small slab ramp and follow a fist crack to a small roof. Mantle the roof and then cut LEFT after clipping the last bolt. Do not continue going straight up and right as many climbers mistakenly do. Place an optional #2 Camalot in the horizontal slot at the top to tame a small runout at the top if you wish. You can also place a #3 Camalot in the lower fist crack if you want to protect the first few moves before the first bolt. The first bolt might be a tad tricky to spot as it's about 15' up. An optional easier start is listed on the topo. Start on the climb on the right side of the formation. This side is slightly easier than starting left by the crack, but it offers less options for trad placements before the first bolt.

Protection

Sport. Optional #2 Camalot in horizontal crack up top to help tame a small runout and a #3 down low to protect the start before the first bolt. The route can be done entirely on trad gear if you want.

Photos

Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
Derek Field   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8
This route does not need bolts. It should be a trad line. Continuous cracks offer reliable cam placements the whole way up. I used doubles .75 to 3 camalot and it was plenty. Regardless, if climbing this as a sport route, do not forget the #2 cam for the horizontal near the top. Would be a horrific fall back under the lip if you botched the not-so-obvious swing-across move to the chains. May 21, 2017
Dan Petty
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
Dan Petty   Wheat Ridge, CO
 
Watch for loose blocks above the roof. Mar 9, 2017
Adam Schmidt SLC   SLC,UT
Fun route, gear in good condition, but seriously needs a lower 1st bolt. Dec 24, 2016
I found this to be a really enjoyable route. I did not lead this but the lip makes for a really fun move. Lots of smearing. Dec 15, 2015