|GPS:||21.574, -158.23 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Matt Nelson on Jun 10, 2009 · Updates|
Access at this area is fragile, and the area is only open conditionally. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.
Please note the following rules:
- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on the approach, and in the parking lot.
- No fires
- Do not deface the cliff
- No amplified music
In addition, please show the state we are good stewards of the land by following the following guidelines:
- Treat other users with respect
- Help clean up chalk and tick marks
- Identify and report safety hazards
- Stay on established trails
- Dispose of human waste appropriately and pack out toilet paper
- Keep a low profile by minimizing noise
- Pack out all gear, rubbish, and practice leave no trace ethics
The routes in this subsection and organized in order from left (east) to right (west).
Mokule'ia Wall is an outstanding basalt cliff with mainly sport routes 40 to 90 feet in length and 5.7 to 5.13c in difficulty. The rock quality is generally good and our classics routes are just as good as the classics at any major sport climbing destination in the continental US. On a crowded day, Mokule'ia Wall might see 40 climbers but during the week there might not be anyone. The Mokule'ia Wall is one of only a few crags in the United States that can honestly boost a 365-day climbing season in shorts and a T-shirt.
This area is equipped to be easily top-roped. Most of the routes will have strings running from the ground to the anchor and back to the ground so you can clove hitch your rope and pull it through the anchors at the top. Some routes may have difficulty ratings printed on the top rope sticks, but the sticks get mixed up so don't place any confidence in what's printed on the stick. The tallest route is about 85' and has 12 bolts so if you bring a 60m and a dozen draws (excluding anchor draws) you'll be set. Virtually all the bolts placed at this crag are bomber titanium glue-ins.
Avoid leaving valuables in your car as break-ins can occur on rare occasion.
Note: it is a violation of state law to bring a dog to the crag unless licensed as a service dog. Violations require a mandatory court appearance. Prior to climbing at this crag you are required to fill out a waiver which is listed above under the "Area Reopened" text.
Likewise, the trailhead is located 1.2 miles east of the end of Dillingham Airfield on the North Shore of Oahu along Farrington Highway. The trailhead is located 0.3 miles east of the YMCA Camp Erdman. The address of the YMCA is 69-385 Farrington Highway, Waialua, HI 96791.
The approach is short but steep. It typically takes 20 to 30 minutes to reach the crag. The approach is about 0.5 miles long and gains about 600' in elevation. There is a distinct trail head from the road marked with warning signs relating to rock fall and a well defined trail to the base of the crag. Bring close-toed shoes for the approach as there is some light 3rd class sections.
Classic Climbing Routes at Mokule'ia Wall
Days w Precip