Elevation: 728 ft
GPS: 21.574, -158.23 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 148,941 total · 1,102/month
Shared By: Matt Nelson on Jun 10, 2009
Admins: 20 kN
Access Issue: Area Reopened Details

Mokuleia Overview

The routes in this subsection and organized in order from left (east) to right (west).

Mokuleia Wall is an outstanding basalt cliff with mainly sport routes 40 to 90 feet in length and 5.7 to 5.13c in difficulty. The rock quality is generally good and our classics routes are just as good as the classics at any major sport climbing destination in the continental US. On a crowded day, Mokuleia Wall might see 40 climbers but during the week there might not be anyone. The Mokuleia Wall is one of only a few crags in the United States that can honestly boost a 365-day climbing season in shorts and a T-shirt.

This area is equipped to be easily top-roped. Most of the routes will have strings running from the ground to the anchor and back to the ground so you can clove hitch your rope and pull it through the anchors at the top. Some routes may have difficulty ratings printed on the top rope sticks, but the sticks get mixed up so don't place any confidence in what's printed on the stick. The tallest route is about 85' and has 12 bolts so if you bring a 60m and a dozen draws (excluding anchor draws) you'll be set. Virtually all the bolts placed at this crag are bomber titanium glue-ins.

Avoid leaving valuables in your car as break-ins can occur on rare occasion.

Note: it is a violation of state law to bring a dog to the crag unless licensed as a service dog. Violations require a mandatory court appearance. Prior to climbing at this crag you are required to fill out a waver which is listed above under the "Area Reopened" text.

Getting There

The best thing to do is copy and paste the GPS coordinates listed below in Google Maps and have the website calculate directions from a location of your choice to the crag.

21.5784, -158.2287

Likewise, the trailhead is located 1.2 miles east of the end of Dillingham Airfield on the North Shore of Oahu along Farrington Highway. The trailhead is located 0.3 miles east of the YMCA Camp Erdman. The address of the YMCA is 69-385 Farrington Highway, Waialua, HI 96791.

The approach is short but steep. It typically takes 20 to 30 minutes to reach the crag. The approach is about 0.5 miles long and gains about 600' in elevation. There is a distinct trail head from the road marked with warning signs relating to rock fall and a well defined trail to the base of the crag. Bring close-toed shoes for the approach as there is some light 3rd class sections.

66 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mokule'ia Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 50
Dr. Hook
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
Pig Tree
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 46
Beat the Burn
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 47
Spice of Life
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Dragon's Breath
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 42
Rainy Wish
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Face The Music
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
Fusion
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
Nurse Hook
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 15
Torpedoed Youth
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 18
Copper Dragon
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Mission Nearly Impossible
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Weenie Roast
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Slice of Death
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 13
Insecticide
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dr. Hook
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Pig Tree
 55
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Beat the Burn
 46
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Spice of Life
 47
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dragon's Breath
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rainy Wish
 42
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Face The Music
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Fusion
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Nurse Hook
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Torpedoed Youth
 15
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Copper Dragon
 18
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Mission Nearly Impossible
 21
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Weenie Roast
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Slice of Death
 12
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Insecticide
 13
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mokule'ia Wall »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: North
Sunny Roughly 6am to 9am during high season
6am
8pm
Details: Mokuleia sees morning sun until 9 AM depending on the time of the year. After 10 AM, it sees shade until sunset year around.

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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Photos