Access Issue: Area Reopened Details

Mokuleia Overview

The routes in this subsection and organized in order from left (east) to right (west).

Mokuleia Wall is an outstanding basalt cliff with mainly sport routes 40 to 90 feet in length and 5.7 to 5.13c in difficulty. The rock quality is generally good and our classics routes are just as good as the classics at any major sport climbing destination in the continental US. On a crowded day, Mokuleia Wall might see 40 climbers but during the week there might not be anyone. The Mokuleia Wall is one of only a few crags in the United States that can honestly boost a 365-day climbing season in shorts and a T-shirt.

This area is equipped to be easily top-roped. Most of the routes will have strings running from the ground to the anchor and back to the ground so you can clove hitch your rope and pull it through the anchors at the top. Some routes may have difficulty ratings printed on the top rope sticks, but the sticks get mixed up so don't place any confidence in what's printed on the stick. The tallest route is about 85' and has 12 bolts so if you bring a 60m and a dozen draws (excluding anchor draws) you will be set. Virtually all the bolts placed at this crag are bomber titanium glue-ins.

Avoid leaving valuables in your car as break-ins can occur on rare occasion.

Note: it is a violation of state law to bring a dog to the crag unless licensed as a service dog. Violations require a mandatory court appearance. Prior to climbing at this crag you are required to fill out a waver which is listed above under the "Area Reopened" text.

Getting There

The best thing to do is copy and paste the GPS coordinates listed below in Google Maps and have the website calculate directions from a location of your choice to the crag.

21.5784, -158.2287

Likewise, the trailhead is located 1.2 miles east of the end of Dillingham Airfield on the North Shore of Oahu along Farrington Highway. The trailhead is located 0.3 miles east of the YMCA Camp Erdman. The address of the YMCA is 69-385 Farrington Highway, Waialua, HI 96791.

The approach is short but steep. It typically takes 20 to 30 minutes to reach the crag. The approach is about 0.5 miles long and gains about 600' in elevation. There is a distinct trail head from the road marked with warning signs relating to rock fall and a well defined trail to the base of the crag. Bring close-toed shoes for the approach as there is some light 3rd class sections.

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mokule'ia Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 43
Dr. Hook
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 45
Pig Tree
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 39
Beat the Burn
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
Spice of Life
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
Dragon's Breath
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Rainy Wish
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Face The Music
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Fusion
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
Nurse Hook
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 15
Copper Dragon
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 14
Torpedoed Youth
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 17
Mission Nearly Impossible
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 20
Weenie Roast
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
Slice of Death
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 10
Insecticide
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dr. Hook
 43
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Sport
Pig Tree
 45
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Beat the Burn
 39
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Spice of Life
 39
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dragon's Breath
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rainy Wish
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Face The Music
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Fusion
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Nurse Hook
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Copper Dragon
 15
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Torpedoed Youth
 14
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Mission Nearly Impossible
 17
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Weenie Roast
 20
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Slice of Death
 10
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Insecticide
 10
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mokule'ia Wall »

Sun & Shade

Routes Mostly Face: North
Sunny Roughly 6am to 9am during high season
6am
8pm
Details: Mokuleia sees morning sun until 9 AM depending on the time of the year. After 10 AM, it sees shade until sunset year around.

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Nich Cloward
American Fork
Nich Cloward   American Fork
Great place to climb and a lot! There are about 56 routes here, that I've been told of. Many of them are mixed, so some of them get quite long runouts without extra pro. I took a 30' fall myself bc I chose not to use the extra pro. Good times. The approach gets quite rocky and had big rocks/boulders on it, so I wouldn't suggest doing it in flip flops (Like I did my first time). Some of the routes' first bolts are a little high, but there is a pole with a clamp on it available to set the first draw, if you're not top roping. There's also a map in the box of the routes, but it's terribly outdated. A book is currently in progress. Follow what's on the sticks with the cord. Climbing here takes a little different style than climbing in my home town, Utah. Also, the rock feels a little slippery to me due to the humidity. Cool place, great routes, but someone did try to break into my rental car (The keyhole get jacked up) so don't leave any valuables in sight. Check out climb aloha. Good selection for a home-ran shop. Sep 19, 2009
I found these directions from rockclimbinghawaii.com to be useful in finding the path to the wall:

Take H-2 north (or go west from Haleiwa) and follow the signs to Waialua on the northwest shore of Oahu. Drive past Waialua and Dillingham Airfield with its skydive center and glider airport. Continue driving until you past the YMCA Camp Erdman facility located on both sides of the highway. At this point, you will want to drive only about another 1,000 feet or so, at which point the ocean and sand is again located just next to the highway. Park your car on either side, and look for a faint trail through tall grass heading up to an obvious cliff line. Avoid, the mistake of continuing too far to the end of the paved highway (an additional half mile past Camp Erdman). Sep 20, 2010
Phenomenal views of the North Shore. If you get there before noon then the crag blocks the sun. Locals are a friendly chill crowd. Stop by a shrimp truck on your way out to make it a full experience.

Ratings are a little light compared to the mainland.….the routes will work you. Dec 13, 2010
B Wenz  
If anyone is headed up to this wall between July 15th and the 20th and wouldn't mind some company, my lady and i would love to join you to provide entertainment and gas money. We will consider entertaining requests for your preferred type of entertainment. We will have our own rope and draws, etc. Jul 5, 2011
Jackie K.
Steamboat Springs
Jackie K.   Steamboat Springs
There are signs at the trail head that say the park is closed and no entry is allowed. There were also two police officers standing at the trail head preventing people from entering the area yesterday. Below is a link to the news story about the closure:

hawaiinewsnow.com/story/187… Jun 21, 2012
Eric Wright
Telluride CO.
Eric Wright   Telluride CO.
Oh Hawaii! Get your act together. Any excuse to keep people out of the forest.
Would love to know who was guiding these kids up there for the YMCA.
Truly qualified guide or a friend of a friend doing a favor. If the later, you know that
morbid old saw. "No good deed goes unpunished".
We have untrained climber types pretending to be guides with too many
misbehaving kids here in CO. And they kick rocks on each other from time
to time. But the state does not close access to public lands over these
accidents. Jan 21, 2013
ashjpeters
Louisiana
ashjpeters   Louisiana
  • Mokuleia climbing closed*
Does anyone have an update on this? Trying to plan a trip for next year, but not sounding hopeful based on how little information is out there about this closure. Jan 22, 2013
Eric "Pig" Varley
Nipomo, CA
Eric "Pig" Varley   Nipomo, CA
Mokuleia and Makapuu are closed for the time being. The best place for information on the closure is to check out Climb Aloha's Facebook page (I can't believe I just recommended Facebook for info). This page will be updated when the crags reopen to the climbing community. Jan 24, 2013
richie Janow
englewood, tn
richie Janow   englewood, tn
Any updates? I just saw where this was closed was planning a trip in October and this was going to be a highlight of the trip. Thanks to the government protecting us from ourselves again. Apr 3, 2013
Talbert
Tempe, AZ
Talbert   Tempe, AZ
So I did a quick run buy today on my trip to check out the area, and the signs (3 of them to be exact) are perminatly fixed now. The warning signs are pretty clear about not going up there. The fines are just as bad, $2500 for your first violation, $5k, and then $10k. I didnt even wanna risk the hike up with that kind of a fine. I hope that the state changes there mind about this becasue the view from the top of the chains are just breath taking. Dec 5, 2013
Any new Beta? Sounds lame. Is there anywhere to climb on the island other than this? Nov 27, 2014
20 kN    
The area has been reopened.


As of January 25, 2015, the Moke has been reopened. All climbers are required to sign an electronic waver before climbing at the Moke. You can find the waver here:

hiclimb.org/join.php

Access at this area is fragile, and the area is only open conditionally. The State requires that climbers exercise good stewardship in order for our access to remain.

Please note the following rules:

- Dogs and alcoholic beverages are prohibited by law at the Moke, on the approach, and in the parking lot.
- No fires
- Do not deface the cliff
- No amplified music

In addition, please show the state we are good stewards of the land by following the following guidelines:


- Treat other users with respect
- Help clean up chalk and tick marks
- Identify and report safety hazards
- Stay on established trails
- Dispose of human waste appropriately and pack out toilet paper
- Keep a low profile by minimizing noise
- Pack out all gear, rubbish, and practice leave no trace ethics Jan 23, 2015
Walter Galli
Las vegas
Walter Galli   Las vegas
Amazing nature awesome walls, I never climb there in the 2 years I lived there, I regretted now,,, enjoy man ... Oct 19, 2015
Richard Nakano   Denver
Just spent a morning climbing here. The approach is long, and you'll want footwear that wont slip on a giant rocky path. It's steep, but rewarding when you see the view. Didn't have a change to climb much because there was a torrential downpour not long into the session. Make sure to check the weather! Getting down in the rain can be somewhat treacherous (and fun). From what I could tell there are a lot more top rope strings set up than MP says, so even without sport gear you could climb a good dozen or so routes of various grades. Seems to be the most difficult/developed crag on Oahu. Jan 4, 2016
Visited in Jan 16 and so glad I did. Excellent crag - lots of high quality routes and the view can't be beat. It was also clear to a visitor that the local community has done a lot to be good stewards of this incredible wall. Thanks to the folks that put in the work to make it accessible to the rest of us.

Thanks also to the friendly local climbers who taught us how to use the string system to get our top-rope through the anchors! Bit of a trick but once you get it the majority of the routes are accessible without leading. Feb 2, 2016
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
I'm not sure why I thought there wasn't climbing in Hawaii but pretty excited to learn of my mistake. My niece lives nearby and frequent Dillingham Beach regularly....this crag is just up the road! I'm sure a visit is in my future and I'll be making certain to bring a the basic essentials for climbing too. Locals.... be on notice, I may be contacting you to partner up! Feb 15, 2016
FYI - The toprope lanyards set up out here are run through a single rap ring attached by quick links and chains to two bolts. This is NOT REDUNDANT. Every single group of climbers I saw out there pulled up a rope with the lanyard and went to town TRing and lowering on the single rap ring. Worn out, non-redundant anchors combined with the plethora of questionable rock and glued on holds on the wall screams accident #2 waiting to happen out here.

The bolt placements are mostly poor and definitely run out in places, with no attention paid to falls over ledges. The routes go a good bit harder than their rating as well. Walking around to the top isn't an option here, so stiff, scary leads are your safest bet so you can set up a proper anchor up top. Be careful folks.

Oh and be ready for lots of dogs (supposedly not allowed) and groups that set up multiple top ropes and drift lazily from climb to climb. The view is great though... Mar 26, 2016
^^^^^previous comment seems really bizarre- the crag is completed bolted with titanium glue-ins that are bomber and they are placed very closely. if you think the place is runout, well, where have you been climbing?

Cool features, away from the tourist trap parts of Oahu, locals are friendly, shaded: Definitely worth checking out. Dec 17, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
Awesome wall, awesome setting. Not sure why people are saying it's sandbagged though, seemed on par if not a tad soft compared to the lower 48.

True, many holds are glued on and sometimes the bolting is a bit sparse but the bolts are bomber titanium and almost all looked well placed to me. Plus, the routes that are runout all have proper PG-13 ratings so use your head and you'll be fine. I hope mjgaglia's comments don't deter anyone, this place is definitely worth the trip.

After one trip I will never come to Oahu without a rack and a plan to come here. 7 days ago