Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 965 total · 8/month
Shared By: 20 kN on Nov 14, 2009 with improvements by Kris Fiore
Admins: 20 kN

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Area Reopened Details

Description

This is the extremely thin face climb between Smokestack and Pigtree. The crux is only about 10 feet long and the rest of the route is 5.7. This route is very rarely climbed.

Protection

The once removed bolts have been restored and the bottom crux now has three modern glue-ins for leading. A short runout leads to older lead bolts that lead to the Smokestack anchor which can also be used for a TR.

Photos

The route is bolted again. Jun 22, 2018
Kris Fiore
Burlington, VT
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, VT  
 
Not sure why this route doesn't get climbed more, true it's a short crux but it's a really fun sequence! Just look at it as bouldering with a rope and it's awesome.

That said, a hold is definitely wobbly. It's a hand before the crux but it's a pretty helpful foothold so when it does fall out (soon) it may make things harder. Dec 8, 2018
I replaced the bolts on this route in 2018 with 3 titanium glue-ins which link into “smokestack” to finish. It hasn’t been sent since a crucial hold broke 10+years ago and the old bolts rusted out. Hard, technical boulder problem, the crux is moving your feet. Open project Feb 10, 2019