Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jim Black
Page Views: 1,591 total · 14/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Sep 27, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

This is one of my favorite routes at Harmel's even if it has bolts close to the ground. The bolts were at least placed on lead and hand drilled. Start at a short and shallow corner at the base of the arete.

Climb up to the 1st bolt above a stiff little mantel. Continue up to the bulging face, and clip the second bolt. Surmount the bulge on hidden holds, and climb up to the bolted anchors. Be wary of the flakes on the edge of the arete, they are a wee bit crunchy and have diminished in size over the years from rough handling. The loss of these flakes would make this a much harder climb.

Location

This ascends the arete between Baby Face and Air Conditioner corner.

Protection

2 bolts and small wires.

Photos

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Jay M  
A 0.4 c4 definitely helps calm the nerves on this one. Dec 13, 2016
SammyJ
Colorado springs
 
SammyJ   Colorado springs
 
Gear to 3" helps unless you feel comfortable running out the last 45 feet of 5.8 after the bolts to the anchors. Aug 13, 2017
Is that some sort of camming device, Jay Myers? Feb 24, 2018