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Routes in Baby Face / Middle Wall

Aquadog T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kindergarten Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Solo Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Taylor Made T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tony's Tango T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jim Black
Page Views: 1,372 total, 14/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Sep 27, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is one of my favorite routes at Harmel's even if it has bolts close to the ground. The bolts were at least placed on lead and hand drilled. Start at a short and shallow corner at the base of the arete.

Climb up to the 1st bolt above a stiff little mantel. Continue up to the bulging face, and clip the second bolt. Surmount the bulge on hidden holds, and climb up to the bolted anchors. Be wary of the flakes on the edge of the arete, they are a wee bit crunchy and have diminished in size over the years from rough handling. The loss of these flakes would make this a much harder climb.

Location

This ascends the arete between Baby Face and Air Conditioner corner.

Protection

2 bolts and small wires.

Photos

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SammyJ
Colorado springs
 
SammyJ   Colorado springs
 
Gear to 3" helps unless you feel comfortable running out the last 45 feet of 5.8 after the bolts to the anchors. Aug 13, 2017
Jay M  
A 0.4 c4 definitely helps calm the nerves on this one. Dec 13, 2016