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Routes in Baby Face / Middle Wall

Aquadog T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crystal Staircase T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Kindergarten Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Solo Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Taylor Made T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tony's Tango T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,331 total, 24/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Aug 29, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Description

This is the crack system on the left side of the slab.

Protection

Standard rack.
Mike Mohr
Cary, NC
 
Mike Mohr   Cary, NC
 
This is a great climb. Creativity is required in some sections, and the pro is abundant. I found cams more useful than stoppers here. The grade may be slightly sandbagged IMO, especially compared to some of the climbs at Hartman's. May 26, 2014
Kyle Judson
Colorado
 
Kyle Judson   Colorado
 
A good novice lead and the little bit of exposure at the crux can make it a bit spicy for beginners. Protects well and has great stopper placements. Jul 18, 2011
Jamie Estep
Crested Butte, CO
 
Jamie Estep   Crested Butte, CO
 
First lead I've ever done was Tony's and without a single cam, not that I can say that was a good idea.

It has good protection. A bit of a mind game when you start slipping out at the bulging crux. If you over protect it, the rope drag is terrible. Good lead for new leading climbers that can safely climb the grade. Feb 23, 2011
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Great route. Sep 13, 2010
For the grade, Tony's is as good a route as you will likely find. A little bit of everything and good pro to boot. The only bummer is that it isn't 5 pitches long. I would be cautious when recommending Tony's Tango to beginning leaders as there is a bit of "deviousness" to this route as is typical for Harmels. When climbing in Gunnison thinking "outside of the box" is a invaluable skill. May 23, 2007