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Routes in Middle Finger Wall

Pocket of Like'N T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balcony, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Connect The Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flexible Flyer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Five T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Iron Curtain TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Finger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rerouted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,031 total, 20/month
Shared By: chopperjohn on Sep 20, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Near and above the big ledge aka " The Balcony"

Location

middle finger proper.

Protection

sling some trees, cam a pocket and a couple horizontal tricam spots leads to nice bolt anchor. Top belay is an option also can be done in 2 pitches to avoid huge rope drag.
Andy Thorsell
Pineville, NC
Andy Thorsell   Pineville, NC
The loose rock mentioned above has been removed and is no longer a concern. Oct 31, 2017
Dave K
  5.5 PG13
Dave K  
  5.5 PG13
Will, you can walk up the gullies to behind the wall in order to set up a top
anchor. You will see a little alcove at the top with a ledge and two big bolts. Not sure of the rope length needed, I think a 70m might be alright, but a top belay might be the safer method of top-roping.

Beware of the loose "fridge-sized" block that is right below the balcony midpoint. This could kill someone. Russ, you are correct that this needs to be trundled safely. Route does not get much traffic, and someone that is unaware of this might be in danger.

To avoid the choss, climb the exposed face below and left of the balcony and traverse right back into it to set up the belay. May 7, 2017
Question: Coming south to take younger nephews climbing. Is there a walkoff, ie method to set toprope without leading this? Apr 6, 2017
  • ** LOOSE BLOCK WARNING ****

Right below the Balcony (1st pitch belay). GIANT BLOCK about the size of a refrigerator.... the whole thing wiggles a lot, it could fall off pretty soon. It would fall right on everyone, maybe even tumble down to the tourist trail. This thing is extremely dangerous. Who should lead the effort to deal with this? Not sure the protocol. Jan 16, 2017
LOVED THIS CLIMB!

Such an unexpected treat. If you are looking for some low-level trad, this is a pleasant but challenging two-pitch adventure that has some of the most unique architectural features I've ever seen, on pitch one. Simply gorgeous visually, getting up to and chilling in "the cave".

Then for pitch two, you have to swing around left out of the cave, which is pretty airy and exposed. The whole pitch is steep and very heady, albeit easy climbing with a million holds and feet. SOOO much fun for trad leading. I've climbed some exposed routes before (Gunks for sure), and this one ranks up there. It's intense! But not scary. Dec 9, 2013
Eduardo Ramirez
Columbia, SC
 
Eduardo Ramirez   Columbia, SC
 
Locate the cave/hole/balcony in the center and halfway up Middle Finger Wall.

Start under this feature on a small slab pillar that leads to the balcony. Climb cliff left out of the balcony and continue climbing up just left of the balcony to arrive on an obivious ledge with a bolted anchor.

One long pitch makes for some fun climbing but make sure to use extended runners. The rock quality is not inspiring but the climbing is physically easy. Jul 22, 2012