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Routes in Middle Finger Wall

Pocket of Like'N T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balcony, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Connect The Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flexible Flyer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Five T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Iron Curtain TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Finger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rerouted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 145 total · 2/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Jul 21, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Locate the small seam cliff left of 'The Balcony'. Great protection leads to a small alcove with a cresant shaped dihedral/crack. Follow the cresant crack up and cliff right while following the crack system.

After further inspection from the Backside Trail I found that there is a more dominant crack feature cliff left of the cresant dihedral/crack that slices Middle Finger Wall all the way to the top. From the cresant you climb cliff left instead of following the crack system up and cliff right.

Look up and locate a tree on a ledge. Once on this ledge the anchor for the balcony is cliff right on another ledge or you can climb past this tree to the bush up above to get to the tippy top of Middle Finger Wall.

Make sure to use runners, especially if you decide to traverse cliff right and up to The Balcony anchor. You can also break this wall up into two pitches but where is the fun in that?(kidding)

The first half of this route protects very well. It starts to get a bit chossy right before the tree ledge (I slung some chicken heads near their bases). Otherwise the climbing isn't too physically hard but the rock quality and exposure keep things a bit spicy!

Location

Cliff left of 'The Balcony'

Locate a small seam leading to a cresant crack.

Protection

Standard North Carolina Rack - Hexes, Tri-cams, Nuts, small-large cams

Photos

stolo
Shelby, NC
stolo   Shelby, NC
Good description. Good protection in beginning. End not so great, but easy climbing. Can definitely sling some chicken heads/odd features. Good climb though. Can also be easily top belayed at the 2 bolt anchors. Feb 18, 2017

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