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Routes in Middle Finger Wall

Pocket of Like'N T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balcony, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Connect The Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flexible Flyer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Five T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Iron Curtain TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Finger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rerouted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 458 total · 7/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Jul 30, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

This route is on the TOPO of the Kelley Guide as a (5.5) but no name is listed. The name is temporary until the original name is found out.

Same start as Rerouted but instead of following the crack system cliff right at the halfway point, you step onto a face cliff left under a right facing flake.

This is definetly the crux. The climbing is easy, the gear is not straight forward. Trying to find the deceptive gear options can be mental and pumpy. Above the right facing flake is a huge ledge with awesome protection near by.

The climbing continues to be physically easy and the protection become a little more obivious. A great warm-up route.

I liked this route a lot more than THE BALCONY.

Location

Cliff left of THE BALCONY(5.5)

Located in the center of Middle Finger Wall.

Protection

Standard Trad Rack - Protects great most of the way until you reach the crux. Easy climbing deceptive gear at the crux. Protects well after the crux.

Natural Anchor

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