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Routes in Middle Finger Wall

Pocket of Like'N T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balcony, The T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Connect The Cracks T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flexible Flyer TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
High Five T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Iron Curtain TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Middle Finger T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pillar Passage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rerouted T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 95 total · 1/month
Shared By: Eduardo Ramirez on Jul 21, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Locate a small seam cliff right on the ledge just past the starting point of 'The Balcony' but before 'Iron Curtain'.

Climb up the small seam that protects well and leads to a ledge. Then continue onto the crack/dihedral to stand on a second bigger ledge leading to the pillar/flake.

Continue to follow the seam behind the pillar and either face climb or chimney up this feature. The seam continues up the face but due to the quality of the rock I followed the flakes cliff left of the seam.

Find mental strength and climb past the flake above the pillar and on to a ledge. Either climb up past one more small section of climbing before you reach the top of Middle Finger Backside or traverse cliff left to the anchor for 'The Balcony'.

Make sure to manage your rope drag with runners especially near the top!


Cliff right of 'The Balcony'

Cliff left of 'Iron Curtain'


Standard North Carolina Rack

Natural Anchor or 'The Balcony' anchor.